Having a couple of party tricks up your sleeve can often lead to getting to know who is who in a gathering. Certainly an innocent demonstration of a neat quick knot in a bootlace (which you just happen to have in your pocket) may later bring a stranger quietly to your side to pursue the subject further.

In other social circumstances, a hint of a coiled cord half out of a pants pocket can be sign enough. When the short rope is strung from your belt in a bar, the implications are a more open invitation.

With some tricks, Magicians often say "Don't try this at home". I say the opposite.
Opportunity to practice is what makes rope-work swift and efficient - and rope-tying practice sessions can sometimes be more fun that trying to sustain a hot encounter while fumbling with ropes.



Describing a rope tie
is never easy and a picture is usually worth a thousand words.

Butterfly or handcuff Knot:
Starting at centre of short rope (1.5 to 3 meters), make two small loops and thread one through the other.

Now fingers on each hand reach for the hanging rope on opposite sides and, pulling them past one another, this should form two linked slip-knots.

If a wrist is put into each loop, the two rope ends can be pulled so the loops tighten. Rope can then just be held between fingers of one hand to prevent loops loosening again - be made-off with a simple half-hitch.

Reef or square

Handcuff - 1
Handcuff - 2


Friction Loop:
(This is easier to illustrate than describe - so a set of photos needs to be taken)

It involves twisting the centre of a length of rope (1.5 to 3 meters) in
two directions at the same time.

Picture holding the rope, horizontally across the front of your body, it resting on the palms of your two hands, each palm flat under the rope - BUT one hand is placed with fingers pointed away from you, the other hand flat under the rope with fingers pointing towards you
(this position is not comfortable but is held for only seconds).

By now twisting each hand (inwards) to point fingers in reversed directions, two loops dangle between the hands. Now place these two loops side-by-side.
This produces a circle of double rope, inter-twined at the bottom.

As a demonstration, someone is invited to place both wrists side-by-side through this single loop. When the rope ends are pulled to reduce the loop size, the cross-over in the double rope holds by friction and the loop stays small. Invited to loosen the binding, the captive’s wrists are able to work the loop slightly bigger. It is then easy to quickly bring the two separate ends of rope up on either side between rope-circled wrists to form a square lash. By grasping close to the wrists the two hanging ropes, the lash remains secure. Keeping control by sustaining some tension, it is then easy to make off the lash in several ways described below (see ‘Additional moves’).


Square Lash:
(1) The most efficient basis for any rope tie = centre of a rope (1.5 to 5 meters) laid over wrists held parallel to one another. One end taken up and over around both wrists twice (not too tight) before the two ropes are twisted above wrists so ends can drop between wrists on either side of the previous wraps around wrists.


(2) Both ends are then taken under and over and dropped between wrists again - before being tightened. This should allow the rope to cinch between wrists, leaving an oval of double rope around each single wrist - and with the rope between wrists separating them slightly. (3) Make off rope.



Wrists tied parallel in any of the ways described above allow for immediate further development. Having made-off the rope ends with a half-hitch or full reef knot the wrists are secure (this lash should not be too tight at this stage).
The tied person can then be further immobilised quickly and simply.


Three useful alternatives when hands are tied in front are … to pass rope ends either …

1 - Under crotch and tie off on the back of pants waist belt ... or …

2 - Take one rope end around each side of waist and tie off tightly behind, or …

3 - Lift bound wrists over the victim’s head and tie off in front of his throat (this is not dangerous unless an attempt is made to force wrists from behind the head).

All alternatives require additional rope.
Tying the hands with a three meter rope allows enough extra for any of the following.


After hands are tied and made-off

1 - by passing ends of rope from tied hands around the waist (bringing bound wrists level with waist in front) this can be made-off tightly. If enough rope remains after this, ends to be passed separately each through one elbow at back. Brought together these can again be tied-off.

This efficiently immobilises elbows close to body - BUT - also adds extra pressure on wrists. So, the position can not be sustained for long before circulation loss becomes a problem.

2 - By dropping the remaining rope and quickly picking it up again from behind under the crotch, considerable control can be used just by tighening the rope. With the free hand a grip on clothing (or hair) helps you to move the prisoner or discourage struggling.

The rope can be made off to a waist belt behind the back as a temporary measure.

3 - A more challenging development is to haul the tied hands over the prisoner's head, bring the rope firmly down behind his neck.

To tie this off infront of the throat is not as dangerous as it might sound.


See DESCRIPTIONS OF ROPE TIES in stories on this site.

For a seriously intense roping to a tree see COMPETITIVE MASOCHISM











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