plus complete texts


1 Gags
2 Chastity Belts
3 Dildos & butt plugs
4 Hospital Restraints
5 Genital Bondage
6 Strait-jackets
7 Bags and Sacks
8 Hoods and Headtrips



First compiled in 1980, each Info Sheet aimed to be an informal compendium of ideas & opinion focused on one specific aspect of erotic "Bondage" game-playing.

At that period in history, published information on the subject of restraint as a pleasurable pastime was far more difficult to obtain. This series of informal single leaflets set out to identify a few separate but related areas of interest generally lumped together as "Bondage". Since that time many informative books and the Internet have arrived.

On this web page, the original leaflet texts are reproduced, mainly as archive material.
But, under each separate topic heading I've now added links to other related information.



Distinctions between S&M games and the focus of "Bondage Enthusiasts" are now more generally accepted as being related but in some ways very separate.
Bondage (for want of a better word) now covers a multitude of different physical and psychological games quite apart from conventional Sado-Masochism.
Academic thesis and steamy case-book reviews of alternative games are being published. But, at the time when the first eight "FETTERS" Information Sheets appeared in The Eighties the then Editor of "DRUMMER" magazine refused to accept any clear distinction between S&M game playing and the more specific appeal of physical restraint in various forms. Attempts to identify the distinctions between S&M and Bondage and accept a certain separateness of appeal met with little enthusiasm by the then editor of America's leading magazine for men into leather and S&M.

The launch of the modest "DUNGEONMASTER" magazine helped slightly, but it was not until the advent of "BOUND & GAGGED" did the distinctions between S&M and Bondage game-playing become more generally acknowledged. Obviously the two subjects are closely related and distinctions difficult to define.

These pre-Internet, eight original "FETTERS" Information Sheets remain a useful compendium of ideas. Each individual Sheet briefly explores options and practical know-how in regard to a specific aspect of erotic "Physical Control and Counter-control" game-playing. The intention remains to promote safety and the more imaginative use of techniques and equipment.

Gathered from various sources, the information aims to help the reader decide which, if any, of the alternatives might appeal to his or her tastes, needs or fantasies.

The psychology of Erotic Bondage is discussed separately under the heading "BONDAGE - TWELVE TALKING POINTS" (Now on web site via 'Information Bank' via the Home Page)

Several people, each with enthusiasm for and practical experience of a particular activity, have contributed their differing (and occasionally conflicting) perspectives.

We are not "recommending" any particular activities in these Info. Sheets.
There is no single proper way to play; this must be left to personal choice and discretion. But knowing what you're doing, and doing it in a 'Safe , sane and consensual' way should always be the main objective.
Practical expertise and sensitivity are the best safeguards. Testing the effect of a piece of equipment on yourself before inflicting it on a 'victim' is a useful precaution. For the Doer to have some idea what it actually feels like is an important Safety Factor.

In addition, trying different effects on a friend outside the context of a Scene, will allow for valuable feedback and exchanging ideas. This will pave the way for safer and more imaginative games in safer circumstances.
Also, by using an improvised substitute for a particular type of equipment, you can decide what you like and don't like without financial commitment at too early a stage.

Each separate 'Sheet' will deal with safety issues particular to it's subject but certain points always apply.
In general, any Scene should only be undertaken with both parties aware of any risks involved and with full consent of the 'victim'.
The use of any item of equipment on someone who is in no position to resist or argue, places full responsibility on the 'doer' to take all necessary precautions. Respect for the physical and emotional capacities of the 'recipient' should be paramount.
Pre-arranged limits and Stop Signals are essential for some people. This is a matter of personal preference, experience, trust, and plain common sense.
It is also advisable to monitor carefully the situation of anyone in severe bondage even if they are, in effect, in "isolation". This is doubly vital if they are also gagged and a verbal signal impossible. In case of panic or distress it is essential that the "controller" can offer calming reassurance or speedy removal of the restraints.
Drugs of ANY sort are dangerous in combination with restraint because without full mental clarity unintentional damage can easily be done.
Basically, when an item of restraint is used to 'plug' a victim, (i.e. gag, dildo etc.) or when blood is drawn, it should either be reserved for use by one person only or very carefully cleaned and sterilised between uses.

Activities described in these Information Sheets are all long established practices.
Our objective is to help prevent technical misapplication and identify possible risks involved. "FETTERS" accepts no responsibility for accident or injury resulting from private individuals putting into practice ideas discussed in these or any other "FETTERS" publications.

First compiled in 1980, each Info Sheet aimed to be an informal compendium of ideas & opinion focused around one specific aspect of erotic "Bondage" game-playing.
At that period in history, published information on the subject of restraint as a pleasurable pastime was far more difficult to obtain. These informal single leaflets set out to identify a few separate but related areas of interest generally lumped together as "Bondage". Since that time many informative books have been published and the broad subject is more widely understood.
Distinctions between S&M games and the focus of "Bondage Enthusiasts" are now more generally accepted as being related but in some ways very separate. Bondage (for want of a better word) now covers a multitude of different physical and psychological games quite apart from conventional Sado-Masochism. Academic thesis and steamy case-book reviews of alternative games have since been published. But, at the time when the first eight "FETTERS" Information Sheets appeared the then Editor of "DRUMMER" magazine refused to accept any clear distinction between S&M game playing and the more specific appeal of physical restraint in various forms. Attempts to identify the distinctions between S&M and Bondage and accept a certain separateness of appeal met with little enthusiasm by the then editor of America's leading magazine for men into leather and S&M.
The launch of the modest "DUNGEONMASTER" magazine helped slightly, but it was not until the advent of "BOUND & GAGGED" did the distinctions between S&M and Bondage game-playing become more generally acknowledged. Obviously the two subjects are closely related and distinctions difficult to define.
The pre-Internet, the eight original "FETTERS" Information Sheets remain a useful compendium of ideas. Each individual Sheet briefly explores options and practical know-how in regard to a specific aspect of erotic "Physical Control and Counter-control" game-playing. The intention remains to promote safety and the more imaginative use of techniques and equipment.
Gathered from various sources, the information aims to help the reader decide which, if any, of the alternatives might appeal to his or her tastes, needs or fantasies.
The psychology of Erotic Bondage is discussed separately under the heading "BONDAGE - TWELVE TALKING POINTS" (Now on web site via 'Information Bank' via the Home Page)
Several people, each with enthusiasm for and practical experience of a particular activity, have contributed their differing (and occasionally conflicting) perspectives.
We are not "recommending" any particular activities in these Info. Sheets.
There is no single proper way to play; this must be left to personal choice and discretion. But knowing what you're doing, and doing it in a 'Safe , sane and consensual' way should always be the main objective.
Practical expertise and sensitivity are the best safeguards. Testing the effect of a piece of equipment on yourself before inflicting it on a 'victim' is a useful precaution. For the Doer to have some idea what it actually feels like is an important Safety Factor.
In addition, trying different effects on a friend outside the context of a Scene, will allow for valuable feedback and exchanging ideas. This will pave the way for safer and more imaginative games in safer circumstances.
Also, by using an improvised substitute for a particular type of equipment, you can decide what you like and don't like without financial commitment at too early a stage.
Each separate 'Sheet' will deal with safety issues particular to it's subject but certain points always apply.
In general, any Scene should only be undertaken with both parties aware of any risks involved and with full consent of the 'victim'.
The use of any item of equipment on someone who is in no position to resist or argue, places full responsibility on the 'doer' to take all necessary precautions. Respect for the physical and emotional capacities of the 'recipient' should be paramount.
Pre-arranged limits and Stop Signals are essential for some people. This is a matter of personal preference, experience, trust, and plain common sense.
It is also advisable to monitor carefully the situation of anyone in severe bondage even if they are, in effect, in "isolation". This is doubly vital if they are also gagged and a verbal signal impossible. In case of panic or distress it is essential that the "controller" can offer calming reassurance or speedy removal of the restraints.
Drugs of ANY sort are dangerous in combination with restraint because without full mental clarity unintentional damage can easily be done.
Basically, when an item of restraint is used to 'plug' a victim, (i.e. gag, dildo etc.) or when blood is drawn, it should either be reserved for use by one person only or very carefully cleaned and sterilised between uses.
Activities described in these Information Sheets are all long established practices.
Our objective is to help prevent technical misapplication and identify possible risks involved. "FETTERS" accepts no responsibility for accident or injury resulting from private individuals putting into practice ideas discussed in these or any other "FETTERS" publications.


BELOW (not working yet)

1 Gags
2 Chastity Belts
3 Dildos & butt plugs
4 Hospital Restraints
5 Genital Bondage
6 Strait-jackets
7 Bags and Sacks
8 Hoods and Headtrips



CHASTITY GAMES (including genital bondage)
HEADTRIPS (find link)



1 = GAGS
Like all other types of restraint, mouth stuffers and covers are mainly a matter of personal capacity - and dare one say - taste!
Whatever the name of your particular game, both physically and psychologically any stuffer, mouth-cover or head harness can create effects which may be either exhilarating or devastating.
To surrender control of verbal communication is a supreme act of submission. The physical intrusion of something into the mouth can be a traumatic experience - but it can also be a "release", because his allows the gagged person to respond vocally in a more extravagant way than usual. Without disturbing the controller or distressing the neighbours, an efficient gag offers the luxury of a good healthy shout and scream, which some people find very liberating.
Another attraction is the physical pleasure or relief of biting into something.
As verbal communication is more completely stifled, so it becomes more important to monitor the victim carefully. Particular responsibility is demanded when the victim is effectively immobilised as well as silenced.
Choking or gagging on something inserted in the mouth can be unpredictable. In case of an involuntary and uncontrollable reaction, any gag must be easily removable. As a general principle a gagged person should not be left unsupervised. Particular care should be taken if someone is gagged lying on their back.
Teeth can be a limiting factor. Damage to either teeth or false dentures must be avoided. Pressing the lips too tightly against teeth can often reduce the length of time a willing victim can endure gagging. Also, the distance teeth and jaw will open varies considerably: A wide gag which one person finds quite acceptable may be too much for another (jaws can be dislocated).
Nasal breathing causes strain for many people. Temporary sinus problems or a cold can reduce the capacity of someone who has previously had no trouble. By breathing deeply and slowly a person can increase his/her ability to endure a situation which may at first seem threatening - but a lot of people are unable to breathe adequately through the nose alone. Gags which allow breathing are generally not as sound-proof - but there are circumstances when a tube gag has additional advantages.
Saliva is another factor to take into account. Some types of gag produce much more saliva than others. This can't always be swallowed, and if the victim is lying face down it can stain bedding or carpets. Alternatively, some gags can make a mouth uncomfortably dry. A soft stuffing such as a knotted scarf can dry the mouth when first applied. Damping the fabric can often be effective.
Dust must also be a consideration if the victim is lying on a carpet or in a dusty environment.
Drugs and gags in particular don't mix. As we've already suggested, the best general rule is - steer clear.
The sterilising and thorough cleansing of anything used as a gag is imperative. Leather stuffers and gum shields should be used by one person only. Gags which can be soaked in antiseptic fluid offer minimal danger.
The immediate effect of anything inserted into or covering the mouth is a sense of helplessness - but with experience it becomes obvious that many traditional images of gags, as seen in films and TV are, in fact, ineffective.
The tongue and teeth have considerable power to dislodge a gag. Mobility of the jaw usually allows even the tightest cloth wrap-around gag or adhesive tape to be displaced eventually. Something stuffed into the mouth can often be used to dislodge what is supposed to keep the stuffing in place.

Single strap (??** IS THERE LOST TEXT FROM HERE???)
Holes in a buckle-strap for gag or head-harness should be no more than half an inch apart. Even so this may not allow for accurate enough adjustment. A soft strap threaded through double 'D' rings is infinitely variable and still perfectly secure.
Straps closed only by Velcro tape can be quite secure especially if the strap doubles back through a loop before Velcro makes contact. This can be rubbed loose unless steps are taken to prevent the possibility.
Traditionally gags fasten behind the neck - but a front or side fixing has many advantages. The psychological effect of a buckle actually over the mouth is quite powerful.
Held open with either a solid wedge, soft stuffer or solid bung with a breathing/feeding hole - each can provide for different opportunities - but many people find that a wide-open jaw soon begins to ache painfully and swallowing/dribbling become problems.
A closed mouth is less able to create noise, especially if also filled and covered. To clamp the mouth closed requires strapping not only around behind the neck but also from chin over crown of head. This strap may also need to be anchored to prevent the 'victim' rubbing it loose. Locking of such a harness is complicated - but if the victims hands can not reach it, there is no problem.

Another consideration is that even when a mouth is efficiently stuffed and covered, noise and vocal communication remains possible. It is the outside of cheeks and around the larynx which needs to be stifled. Of all the different types listed, it is not until you reach 'muzzles' that the configurations described below give maximum noise reduction.
Strap Configurations:
This is the usual image for any gag - but by flexing the neck and chin considerable strain can be put on the gag-fixing. Unless very tight, fabric can be stretched and a strap dislodged. A very tight fixing may damage the corners of the mouth particularly if strapped across an open mouth.
Something in the mouth attached to a strap is much less easy to work loose - but still the strap may cut the corners of the mouth.
Used with any attachment inside the mouth this is more secure and comfortable. if the cover is broad enough it can also reduce the sound from cheeks.
This is usually shaped to fit under the chin as well as over mouth and cheeks - but requires at least one extra strap over the head (usually plus others to hold these firmly in place). When designed to clamp the mouth closed rather than cover a wedge gag, it can be an almost total silencer'.
Many different configurations are possible - but these all produce a powerful psychological effect - by surrounding the head with straps. However, although thick leather and heavy hardware may look more dramatic, it may limit time the harness can be worn. Pressure points around the head/nose/neck are potentially dangerous. A harness which feels limp and lightweight in the hands may fit better and feel very powerful when strapped in place. Used in conjunction with a hood or helmet the effect can be particularly intense (However, remember - it must be possible to remove any gag quickly in an emergency).
Incidentally, when a head-harness is being put on, be sure to get it centred right so as not to obstruct nasal breathing or pull down on the bridge of the nose.
Traditional strappery for a horse, and used to hold a bit in place and control head movement - perhaps with attached reins.
Some head-harnesses have built-in or detachable blindfolds. One aim is to rob the wearer of personality - or make him/her less recognisable.
These very useful devices concentrate attention by forcing the wearer to rely on other less well-developed senses (also, making them more helpless).
Obscuring the vision is easy but to produce a totally light-proof simple blindfold requires a good shape and some padding. This may place slight pressure on eye-balls, so contact lenses must taken into account. Single-strap blindfolds can usually be rubbed off the head - if such movement is allowed.
These are dealt with in the main catalogue and are a slightly different category. Used in conjunction with gags many types of soft leather hoods can be very effective. Hoods with mouth openings, through which gags can be inserted, are usually preferable to closed hoods laced over a gag.
Other headgear such as motorcycle helmets can serve to isolate the wearer and increase the sense of helplessness. Sports stores also stock a range of face-guards and protective masks which can be useful to imaginative players.
These automatically reduce ability to make noise. Used with a snorkel breathing mouth-piece or any 'stuffer' they are a very effective form of gag. However, making a gas-mask impossible to remove by rubbing against a surface can only be achieved by devising a separate series of straps for the back of the mask - or totally immobilising the head.
A semi-soft ball, depending on its size can fit between the teeth or behind them in the mouth. Ball gags are often pictured on a thong or light chain. As such they're an inexpensive and efficient toy - but they do tend to cut the corners of the mouth. A wider strap is advisable if used for any length of time. You can find suitable balls in toy and pet stores - both are likely to be made from non-toxic materials. The same can not be said of shaped bungs, etc. bought from hardware or motor-supply sources.
A largish ball forced beyond the teeth and into the mouth can be effective (if the ball will come out again without too much dental strain).
A smaller ball completely in the mouth, anchored to a mouth-cover and the mouth clamped closed, has a whole different feel and can be very effective (A squash ball is an ideal size for most people).A larger soft foam ball, sold in many toy shops, is an interesting alternative. Squeezed small it will fill a mouth very effectively and can be held in position with just a light strap. It will also absorb and hold a considerable amount of liquid, which can intensify the situation.
Suitable shapes can be found, but the chemical composition of the material may be questionable. Rubber door-stops in various sizes have been used to great effect when attached to a mouth cover.
The ideal shape is a slice of orange. This can be whittled from wood and covered with leather or rubber (with or without padding).
Wedging only the front centre of the teeth may create dental problems for some people. A wedge which follows the tooth line is safer - and with something added to press down on the tongue, this can be very effective.
A traditional gag, used by surgeons before anaesthetics were invented, was a piece of wooden dowel padded with sheepskin and covered with leather. Two leather thongs attached to either end were passed behind the head, wound round the opposite ends of the bar and then fastened behind the head. The rubber bar (HR??**) is also a simple and practical device.
Actual harness bits come in many shapes and sizes. Pony-size is usually best, and ones with a rubber bar are easier on the teeth. Whether incorporated into a bridle and reins or just used on a single strap, this piece of authentic equipment has a quite unique feeling when used in a Scene.
Although they hold the mouth well open, metal rings (whether covered with leather or not) put all pressure on the side teeth . So any jolt which causes sudden mouth movement could be dangerous.
Some people find an 'O' ring can be turned in the mouth and is therefore ineffective. To prevent this the strap should be at least an inch wide.
Embedded in a wide mouth-cover, plastic plumbing pipe or rubber hose can make useful breather-gags'. The maximum diameter of the pipe is determined by the distance between teeth (or by the object of the exercise). Again, all pressure is on the front-centre teeth so care must be taken. If a stopper the size of the tube's internal diameter can be found, a dual purpose gag can be made.
These fall into two categories, those which hold the mouth open and those which allow the teeth to close. Apart from the pre-formed balls and bungs already mentioned, hand-made soft stuffers are available made from leather, rubber and moulded plastic (including a penis-head shape). It should not be possible to bite through the 'neck' of an open mouth stuffer (see gum shields).If this situation appeals to you, it is worth experimenting to discover the approximate size and shape (open and closed) of your mouth interior. Using a thin plastic bag and some small pieces of fabric, allow the corner of the bag into your mouth and then load in fabric until the mouth is comfortably full. Twist the neck of the bag and bite down to mould a shape. The measurement of the circumference and length will give a useful indication of the size you need when making or buying something more permanent.
Psychologically these promise well, but there are several problems. If not strongly inflated it is possible for the teeth to puncture it. If inflated too strongly it can press onto the back of the throat and cause breathing difficulties or even jaw damage. Some people maintain that if an inflatable bladder pops' in the mouth this can cause serious damage to the lungs. Discussions with several doctors have produced conflicting opinions on this point.
A pair of these can be made into a very efficient gag and mouth immobiliser. After being softened in hot water they form a mould giving a plastic casing to the full arc of the teeth (they can only be worn by one person). An upper and lower set of these can then safely be wedged apart because the pressure is equally distributed and thus the teeth protected.
A breather wedge made to fit between two sets of Gum Shields can be excellent for many situations. A mouth clamped closed on Gum Shields is totally immobilised and if cheeks are covered, this makes an almost total silencer.
These are very specialised pieces of equipment, used in both heterosexual and homosexual games. Even when not used for penetration, the humiliation of being made to wear it plus the implied threat, make it a powerful device. If it is intended for actual use, the protuberance must be solidly anchored to the mouth-cover and perhaps connected to a stuffer' in the mouth.
A small piece of tape stuck over the mouth to silence a victim is a film and TV cliché. In reality it is not so simple. Because of the flexibility of the cheeks and jaw the tape must be wide enough, long enough and stuck over the mouth when open to make it effective. Alternatively the jaw has to be taped upwards before the mouth is covered.
A mouth stuffer used in a taped mouth can be used to push the cover off. Wrapping narrow tape around the head and across the open mouth to hold stuffing in place is effective but can cause the victim to bite into his/her flesh inside the mouth. Fabric based Duct-tape' can be very useful - particularly when wrapped around both the gag-line and from under chin round over the top back of head. Two points to be borne in mind are that removing adhesive tape can be painful and the possible toxicity of industrial tape.


Attempting to chart this and other 'territories', brainstorming sessions with several different game-players produced a series of basic fact sheets.
Because the following notes cover both the fantasy and reality of chastity belts they have since been used as a starting point for discussion on many occasions.
FIRST THOUGHTS (September l980)
The situation of a woman locked into an indestructible crotch cover to protect her from sexual assault or to prevent promiscuity while her husband was off on a Holy Crusade has featured in romantic fiction for hundreds of years.
Today this idea of enforced fidelity (of one or both partners) seems to have a new appeal in our free-and-easy lives. To surrender such very personal freedom (either willingly or under threat) certainly adds zest to a relationship. Whether as punishment, a symbol of domination or a sign of mutual commitment, this sort of activity can take any relationship on to a different level. For both partners to accept limitation of access to their own bodies when apart can create even more dramatic situations.
To be left alone at home, or to be out and about at the office or factory, while locked into a restraint of this very personal nature is a constant reminder of dependency that can create hours of highly stimulating sexual excitement.
The traditional medieval type of "T" shaped metal girdle is what most people imagine when the subject is mentioned: something rigid, rusting and clanking with padlocks. Where has that image come from? Reliable historical evidence is scarce. Many museums display a metal construction of dubious origins and even more questionable efficiency. Historically the aim seems to have been to ensure that a woman would not become pregnant during her husband's absence, thereby safeguarding the line of succession. Alternatively it was to preserve a daughter's virginity to protect her marriage prospects.
For this purpose the "T" shape (a lockable waist belt fixed to a front to back crotch strap) would frustrate attempted copulation rather than prevent it! It would leave masturbation or sodomy as the natural alternatives.
But, to totally prevent sexual enjoyment or arousal in any form is a very different ball game ... particularly when the subject is male! Anyone who has experimented with any form of cock bondage has encountered the problems of variability. Something which is comfortably restricting can suddenly become dangerously tight. The physical and social problems are numerous. Cock locks, sheaths, solid jocks and the like all have their advantages and limitations. Add to this the wide range of personal preferences for visual and dramatic effects and the range of possibilities becomes mind boggling.
A CLOSER LOOK (January l983)
Since I started writing the above notes a couple of years ago, there's been a lot of sweat, tears and occasional blood spilt in the cause of experimenting with different concepts of the chastity belt. The FETTERS workshop is littered with aborted contraptions. Yet we know that around the world there are men and women who are regularly locked into solid realisations of their fantasy: enforced chastity! For many people the chastity belt is the ultimate symbol of a partner's dominance or surrender. Taking any fantasy into reality can be a risky business. The most potent jerk-off routines, however detailed, usually have vague areas. To achieve the reality it is usually necessary to bring the dream into sharper focus.
The hard edges of reality could make most of our torture / punishment / imprisonment fantasies intolerable. Such a fantasy might be destroyed for all time if the actuality turned the slightest bit sour. FETTERS customers soon discover that the solid steel reality of manacles, or the unyielding canvas and leather straps of a straitjacket are a very different ballgame to their erotic daydreams. However, most of them can learn to live happily with the reality after making the necessary mental readjustments. My point is that facing up to these practical realities should begin in the planning stages when you are going to make or order equipment.
Bringing a fantasy into reality can be as complicated as writing a scenario for a movie. The general sweep of the action can be decided easily, and the dramatic or visual style is probably already clearly defined, but before it becomes reality, the practical details have to be brought into focus one by one. These cannot be conveniently skimmed over.
A chastity belt Check List is often the best way to make sure no essential element gets left out of the scene. Writing this list shouldn't be a chore. Whether it's done in partnership or in secret, checking over the specifics can give hours of stimulating speculation. Not only worth the effort; a whole lot of fun!
A check list might start with one of two questions:
What does it look like? or - what is it supposed to prevent?
Get that into focus for a start. (How practical is the fantasy of being welded permanently into a cast iron jock strap if, in reality, you can't even sit down without getting a hernia.)
The visual image:
This may be one of the main turn-ons. Should it involve something metal and vaguely medieval; or be like a Victorian surgical corset, all horsehide and rivets; or in shining modern hi-tech stainless steel?
Any device intended for actual use for even relatively short periods of time, must be used with consideration of the wearer's physical safety.
The choice of material, although perhaps an essential part of the desired dramatic effect, must be weighed against all practical considerations. If abrasions are allowed to develop, pleasure can be denied to all concerned for a matter of weeks.
When you have decided exactly what the device is supposed to do or to prevent, you should perhaps experiment with improvised versions before settling on a particular design. This way you can discover what does or doesn't work for you.
The degree of escape-proofing is another reality which has to be faced. A totally indestructible impregnable device is virtually impossible in this day and age. Given access to a hacksaw, a pair of bolt cutters or a friendly locksmith, no thoroughly determined victim need remain imprisoned.
Exactly how secure need the device you have in mind be?. Threat alone is often enough to keep a victim wearing even the most uncomfortable device. Additional restraints such as mitts and handcuffs can sometimes reduce the number of locks needed. Of course if the hands are free and still the device can't be removed without destroying it, the scene is intensified!
Face the facts, leather straps can be cut; inexpensive locks can be picked. Metal reinforced leather and top quality padlocks will add considerably to the cost.
Locks at every fixing point may make opening and closing a device a very complicated process. This can be a potent part of your scene ... or a downright irritation. The rules of the game are something that only you can decide. (I deliberately refer to all S/M activity in terms of a game. Although it can be as tough, demanding and painful as ice hockey, football or boxing, if it ceases to be a game, the dangers are legion!).
However high or low security factors are on your list, the situation should never arise that a belt is causing so much pain or physical damage that the wearer must remove it at any price!.
Toilet functions and hygiene:
The most practical reality is the time factor when choosing a device, because toilet functions have to be considered if it's to be worn for periods of over five hours; particularly if the key holder is not immediately available.
With the traditional 'T' shaped design both toilet functions are possible, though really quite messy. A totally efficient design, particularly if a butt plug is used, can make such body functions impossible.
For periods of over five hours without relief, people with experience of bondage for unspecified periods can usually devise their own solutions. Control through diet, enemas or day/night urinal bags allow most situations to be made possible. Having considered the points raised so far you should by now have a clearer idea which device will allow which sort of possibilities.
(For expanded Check List ideas see the 'Check List' workshop notes on the main Chastity Index)

Everything in erotic bondage is a matter of degree.
Denying a partner access to his/her own body for a day is very different from the victim spending a night locked into the same device! Believe me!!
Wearing a "handicap" in the privacy of the home is very different from being escorted around a public place with it locked on. Being taken around with the device hidden beneath clothes is totally unlike being at a social event with all the locks exposed to view. All a matter of degree.
Forcing someone to go off to their place of employment unable to take a piss can give both "players" a day of intense tension, but for two people to mutually agree to spend their time apart both locked into devices with keys held by their partners is something else!
The range of different designs available in many leather stores or mail-order catalogues is considerable, but in most instances the degree of efficiency will depend upon a good fit. Even most off-the-peg cock and ball toys either fit or they don't; there are no half measures. Some people can't get them on while others find that they fall off.
Adjustability in a lockable chastity device is usually quite limited. Accurate measurements are particularly important if ordering by mail.
Safety factors deserve more space than I'm prepared to give them here. Because so much in S/M is a matter of personal taste (and degree) it should be enough to say "Take care"! Most male chastity devices need to fit tightly around the genitals, and when locked on the cock and balls may be out of view. Even temporary interruption of blood circulation is potentially dangerous - and the danger signals are usually seen rather than felt. You can minimise this danger with cautious and concerned experimentation. Monitoring the effect of what's going on inside a metal jock-box or behind a laced up, strapped down, butt plugged horsehide crotch harness is up to the gamesman.
The safety of all S/M equipment is, generally speaking, in the hands of the users rather than those of the designer / maker / supplier.
The original Information Sheet then continued with details of various designs for male chastity devices developed by 'Fetters' twenty-five years ago. These and many variations are still in production.
During the past few years many FETTERS customers have come to us with very specific ideas and we've been able to carry many of them out successfully. As a result of this experience we have been able to identify the more popular and efficient types of chastity devices.
END Chastity Belt Information Sheet

For related information see GENITAL BONDAGE Info


The use of symbolic and artificial penises dates back at least to the Ancient Greeks, but modern technology has made a greater variety more readily available and safer to use. In Britain most are made from a malleable oil-based plastic with a remarkably flesh-like texture. In the USA a more rigid polyurethane is generally used.
In bondage the addition of a plug' of any kind can intensify a situation and contribute to the sense of vulnerability and domination. For many people they are an essential part of any Chastity Device.
The current legal situation regarding the sale and use of such items seems to be deliberately confused. A wide variety of dildos and plugs are openly offered for sale in the Popular Press, and all are advertised under the waiver "Sold as novelties only - not for actual use". Limitations on the posting and import/export of such goods are confusing (to say the least). So far we have been unable to find any solid evidence of statutes controlling the sale or shipment of such goods.
We would prefer that the use or non-use of such implements remain a matter of adult, well-informed personal choice rather than of government legislation - - but we do strongly advise that any such use is undertaken with full awareness of the physical and hygienic dangers involved - and only with the full consent of both people involved.
Any plug' inserted into any human bodily orifice must be clean, smooth and firmly anchored to something with which it can be pulled out again. A collar or plate, firmly attached to a flexible central core, is preferable.
Most good items manufactured for penetration have a chain core which prevents pieces breaking off. Any dildo with a more rigid core can be extremely dangerous as this could break through it's soft casing and cause irreparable damage to delicate internal human tissue.
Totally solid items of reasonable proportions and perfectly smooth, non-toxic finish may be used without danger if there is no violent movement of either the implement or the body while it is inside. Again this is a matter of individual capacity and pain threshold.
Careful washing after use is essential. This involves more than wiping. Warm soapy water with added antiseptic fluid is preferable - followed by careful rinsing in clean warm water - followed by a further soak in antiseptic for at least half an hour - then rinsing and drying. Store in a clean plastic bag, and preferably re-soak in antiseptic (and rinse) immediately before use. This may sound extreme, but the middle of a hot sexual Scene is not the time to check if the equipment is clean and safe to use.
Restricting the use of any one plug to one person is the simplest way of avoiding transfer of germs.
Signs of wear such as a pitted surface or splits on the coating are danger signals. Once the surface is broken, the plastic can easily tear and separate, therefore these items should be destroyed immediately. Lubricant from a dispenser or tube is much safer than from a canister or jar. Age and storage conditions can cause lubricant to deteriorate - which may then become a health hazard.
In recent specialised catalogues the range has expanded beyond the natural and practical penis substitutes with lengths of six to eight inches (153/205mm) and circumferences of 4.25 to 6.25 inches (120/157mm). The variety of shapes and textures now includes full fists, open hands and 'monster' proportions. Although offered for sale as "Novelties - not for actual use, one can only assume that somewhere there are people who use, or attempt to use phallic substitutes 18 inches long and ten or more inches in circumference.
Everything is a matter of degree; personal preference, medical considerations and plain common sense should provide each individual with their own guidelines. As with the real thing, sensitive manipulation of a small and flexible intrusion can be more erotically stimulating than sheer size and weight.
Many women and men find these 'toys' stimulating when inserted into the anus or vagina. Battery operated with rigid or flexible casing, some even have varying speeds of vibration. Unfortunately all are liable to malfunction, and none seem to have any external attachment point - which is risky. Available from must 'Sex Shops' and some mail-order distributors.
Various gimmicks intended to increase the size of any orifice are available. A medical 'spreader' is a form of metal reverse pliers. In experienced hands these can be quite safe, but indiscriminate use cane be painful and dangerous. Inflatable 'toys' are also made in different shapes and sizes.
To prevent a plug from entering deeper or being taken out, a simple harness is often used. This may or may not be lockable. A few are illustrated over leaf, but the more complicated versions are discussed in the Chastity Belt section of the catalogue and in the Chastity Belts INFO Sheet.
This useful addition to a harness not only keeps plug firmly in place, but it has a 'split-ring to which plugs can be attached.

............... Describe?
A very high quality chrome plated solid steel with screw-on end loops are available to special order. 4 inches long by 3.75 circ. to 6 inches long by 4.75 circ. (weighing from 11 to 29 ounces!).
............. ADD?
A popular stimulator for men or women. Plastic or rubber balls threaded on string or leather thong. Not easy to keep clean, so advisable to limit use to one person only.


This is an area of fantasy enactment which quite a few people find appealing. The degree to which it can be put into practice mainly depends on convincing role-playing and availability of authentic-looking equipment. As far as we can discover, there are only two major suppliers of actual hospital 'restraints' in the USA and none in Britain. Of course, many useful materials related to 'medical' needs are available if you know where to look - and have the nerve to go in and ask for them.
Reproduced here are the actual 'restraint' sections of the HUMANE RESTRAINT and POSEY INC. catalogues. We would like to expand this list of sources and useful items which you have experienced or heard about.
Since around the 1920s actual restraint of hospital patients has been very much frowned upon - but more recently, the use of sedatives to make patients controllable and suppress out- ward signs of hysteria have also been criticised. The French, in particular, have returned to using the strait-jacket or "camisole" to allow certain categories of patient to work off surplus energy or anger without harm to themselves or others.
These are dealt with in greater detail in our "Notes on Strait jackets" (Info Sheet 6). For people who want authenticity the HUMANE RESTRAINT and POSEY jackets are the ones sold to hundreds of hospitals and sanatoria in the USA. Sizes are generally large, and only if expertly applied are they totally escape-proof.
The Humane Restraint leather restraints are of excellent quality material and finish (which is reflected in the prices). The various kinds of locks are of interest. The variety of uses they can be put to depends entirely on the imagination of the user.
Lightweight webbing straps with Velcro closings have a variety of uses and can be tamper-proof if strategically placed. Easy knots: The POSEY catalogue illustrates a range of easy knots which members of the 'nursing' profession are expected to know.
Special bed blankets, such as the SHERWOOD heavy canvas and the POSEY lightweight "Net" are combined restraints and covers which some people (having discovered them in Government Surplus stores) find useful in imaginative domestic Games.
This is an area where personal preference and fantasy may really run riot. Anyone who has been subjected to the rigorous efficiency of a surgical collar or corset may not be 'turned on' by this kind of authentic equipment - but there are many people who are. As it is very expensive and often custom-made, it is not easily available. However, there are sources of second-hand supplies. In these places other authentic pieces like hospital trolleys, dentists chairs may also be found - if you have the nerve to go ask. Also, First Aid and Safety supplies outlets now offer a range of inflatable splints which are highly efficient for preventing bending of elbows / wrists / knees without any real discomfort. This make them ideal (and safe) for extended periods of immobilisation.
This is an area for the "Do It Yourself" enthusiast. Know-how and experience are only gained from practical experience. The human body is not as easy to wrap as an inanimate parcel. Naturally, care must be taken not to interrupt blood circulation. It should also be remembered that the bandaged area does soon swell slightly, increasing the tightness of the wrapping. Any bandaging should be re-checked after about thirty minutes.
Types and widths of bandage give many different opportunities. Elastic bandage (even soft rubber strips) can be used. It's mainly a matter of visual effect and personal taste. All types of soft wrapping can be efficient if properly applied. The time it takes to release a mummification is a consideration if an emergency develops. A pair of blunt-ended scissors is a wise investment.
For really extreme (and lengthy) Scenes this has been used to great psychological and physical effect. Know-how about using it should be sought in advance - and, like many other aspects of 'Bondage', an experiment to discover how it feels before subjecting someone else to it, is advisable. Knowing how to cut it off without causing damage is also essential before it has been put on! (add epoxy resin?)
So far we have not been able to get an illustrated catalogue of surgical supplies which picture the existing range of clamps for penis, mouth. etc. They certainly exist, and have been used in erotic or at least provocative 'scenes' by people who have access to them through their work.
The standard patterns of jackets as made by FETTERS incorporate the best design features of the ones in the two hospital catalogues.
Our 'Clinical' jacket is of 15oz natural (off-white) cotton duck with either leather or webbing straps. Laundering is easier if webbing straps are used.
Any number of extensions can make a strait-jacket match the visual image of a fantasy. Extra straps, padding, heavily overlapped seams, leather reinforcement can create the effect of high tech or Victorian Institutional brutality.


This area of "restraint" is so essentially a matter not only of individual choice but perfect fit - it is often better left to the ingenuity of the do-it-yourself enthusiast to make up equipment - if only in prototype. The wide range of "Toys" available from shops and by mail-order either fit or they don't. Adjustability is not a feature of most items.
Genital Bondage falls into three basic categories: Self-stimulation, prevention of masturbation and enforced chastity. Many aspects of these three are better covered in the NOTES ON CHASTITY BELTS. This sheet aims to focus on different ways of actually wrapping or restraining the male sexual organ as an erotic experience.

The usual note about safe and sane 'bondage' applies even more seriously to genital bondage. Interrupted blood circulation can very quickly cause serious permanent damage. Even temporary, superficial skin abrasion on the sexual organs can lead to loss of pleasure if nothing more, and inhibit activities for a considerable time. Particularly when genitals are covered while in 'bondage', careful monitoring is essential.
The mere presence of a single band around the base of cock and behind the scrotum can act as a powerful erotic stimulus. To many men it is part of everyday life. A cockring can be worn continuously without causing any serious damage or discomfort if not too tight. Choice of material, degree of weight or tightness is usually a matter of choice - or an act of submission. Many more complicated pieces of genital bondage equipment such as sheaths and 'Gates of Hell' are usually anchored onto a C.R. Therefore two different types of ring should be considered first.
A simple ring of metal, rubber, leather or chain is an inexpensive and effective stimulator. Even the act of getting a cockring into position behind the scrotum can be a stimulus in its own right - making it a pleasurable or painful undertaking. Whether the testicles are put through the ring before the penis or vice versa depends on personal preference and practicality. The minimum size of a solid ring is determined by the possibility of passing one testicle through. First-time users may find the process difficult, but it is safer to start with a ring too large rather than too small. What is enjoyably snug one minute can become excruciatingly (and dangerously) tight seconds later. Veins are very close to the surface and it's easy to interrupt the blood-flow. Even so, the C.R. is a popular and widely used device.
These allow for a tighter circle when in position because they can be smaller than the diameter of one testicle. Again, tightness for any length of time is a matter of personal capacity. Adjustment may take several forms depending on the material.
Four very simple and inexpensive alternatives are:
Short chain, lightweight and rust resistant, perhaps closed with a miniature padlock allows for a snug fit and a little extra consciousness of weight.
"Jubilee Clip" from an ordinary hardware store is an adjustable circle of metal strip which can be screwed smaller with a screwdriver. Psychologically very exciting. This would be an ideal device if it wasn't so easy for the screwdriver to slip as it's being tightened/untightened. Also, raw edges of the metal have to be smoothed before use. A very short screwdriver is advisable.
Disposable plastic 'ties' sold in garden supply shops have a loop in one end and when the other end is threaded through and tightened it will not loosen again - and must be cut off. The "Flexicuff" used by several Police Forces are Big Brothers to this versatile little item. A packet of them in various sizes is a useful addition to any Toy' cupboard.
Leather Thong or boot lace has a special appeal for people 'into' leather. Either knotted or plaited around it has a very different feel to metal or rubber. If you were a Boy Scout or Girl Guide you already know the complexities of a 'Turks Head' knot. Fun to put on, and complicated to tighten - but a unique device. Pubic hair may create problems - but then again, it may not.
When closed these must be small enough to prevent one testicle being pushed through. Several styles are illustrated. If a screw-lock is used, pinching must be avoided when being closed. If locked with a padlock, general movement may cause pinching due to the looseness of the padlock hasp. A piece of adhesive tape can eliminate this. A nut-and-bolt is an inexpensive alternative, but is only 'locked' if it's a "tamper-proof" bolt-head or other more extreme measures are used.
Ordinary padlock with a hasp approximately 2.75 inches wide will usually lock-around as a heavyweight cockring. Positioned under the scrotum this is a 'Heavy Trip' particularly when worn under street clothes in public places. Care should be taken to monitor the effect for short periods before the wearer is left alone without access to the key. The same idea is safer if a smaller size padlock is used, locked around the top of the ball-sack only.
Bull-Rings are special hinged rings and make an interesting alternative. Designed for piercing through the nostrils of a heavy animal to attach a lead-chain, they can be closed around the cock-and-balls. A small screw is then tightened and its head broken off. They're still removable because the broken screw reveals a screw-slot - but the effect is good. Unfortunately they come in only relatively large sizes, so can usually be slipped off. Two other problems are 1) The sharp edge designed for piercing is dangerously sharp (and no-one should be tempted to try piercing with it!)... and 2) The hinge when open reveals two sharp corners which can cut as the ring is closed. Bull-rings are a tempting idea but should only be used with caution.
ADD MORE ....................
There are so many alternative forms of Genital Bondage 'Toys' manufactured in leather, rubber or neoprene. The effects of different configurations these produce can also be achieved with a piece of leather thong or soft cord, so they can be tried-out before a manufactured item is bought.
The original Information Sheet went on to describe various configurations - but so many manufacturers now have well illustrated web site, there is no point in duplicating effort.
Usually linked by short leather straps, any number of configurations are possible.
"Arab Strap": Cockring with a second smaller ring around the base of the penis only is used traditionally as an aid to sustaining an erection. Whether the second ring is linked to the C.R. by one strap or two it is a popular piece of basic equipment. If the lower sides of the two rings are linked by a short strap or chain tightly between the testicles it not only becomes a "Ball Separator" but can be impossible to slip out of.
"Gates of Hell": Traditionally implies a Cockring joined to three / six smaller rings along the penis. The diameter of these rings depends on whether the aim is to sustain an erection or prevent it.
"Stallion Guard": The real thing is designed to prevent a stud horse servicing a mare. A Gates of Hell can serve the same purpose - particularly if the rings are linked by other straps along the length of the penis. If the last ring is smaller than the others this makes full erection painful, if not impossible. Only when the first ring is linked to the C.R. under the balls is this device fully effective and un-removable without access to the key.
Leather strap versions of the above joined by rivets and either buckles or "Locking Posts" make attractive alternatives to metal.
Used to encase, restrict, hold up or down - the main problem is in the rapid changes in sizes during any Scene. Whether lockable or strapable a sheath should be as soft as possible to be really effective. Open ended or closed they can be the basis of many different games and situations.
Small rings attached to the ends of sheaths can be very useful, but if the sheath is then constricted inside other clothes rings and miniature buckles can cause havoc.
Internal prickers and external studs are a matter of personal choice (for either the wearer or buyer). These can add considerably to the physical and visual drama of the situation. Those sheaths which are supposed to encase both cock and balls are particularly difficult to get a snug fit.
Rigid sheaths or even bent sheaths can have their places in the wide variety of alternatives.
If made of metal, these should not be sharp enough to draw blood. If used in penis sheath or ball toys, remember that the skin is very thin. Skin damage is caused quickly and takes a long time to heal. The alternative is a rubber pad with nodules of rubber which when pressed onto a sensitive area can feel like metal pins. The rounded ends of rivets assembled on a leather pad can also have their uses.
Sometimes referred to as 'Trainers', it does seem that the ball-sack does grow or stretch gradually as these devices are used. Attachments for weights, lead chains, etc. are a matter of personal choice and needs. To circle the top of the sack with a strap is less dangerous than around the cockring line. This is how many FETTERS Chastity Devices are anchored.
The Parachute Harness is a particularly popular toy (with or without internal prickers) as an anchor for weights.
Several popular genital toys divide the ball sack. These can be used as an alternative to, or in conjunction with, Ball Stretchers.
As with sheaths, these either fit or they don't. Well tailored they can have an interesting visual effect - and under wrapping of cord or thong can act as a protector to sensitive skin.
A range of plates through which the cock, or cock and balls can be threaded and anchored. Fixed at the waist and perhaps under the crotch to back of waist these can be the basis of many alternative designs. If large and heavy with studs or cones they are a symbolic threat when worn by a sexual partner.
A stomach plate when very small, and with an attached cover, becomes an efficient device known as the "Rat Trap" but it should perhaps be called the "Clam Shell" because once cock and balls are sandwiched inside, there's no way they'll come out without access to the key.
The strap or chain used to fix any stomach plate into position must circle the waist above the hip bones if it's meant not to be slid off. The links from the plate to the waist need not be particularly tight if a ball-sack strap is incorporated because this will prevent removal.
A variety of differently shaped and sized covers can be used to encase the genitals. They usually hinge from the base upwards unless a flattening effect is desired. An interesting alternative to solid metal or leather covers can be cages made from strips of leather, metal strap or wire. These can have extraordinary visual impact as well as physical results.
A general range of 'novelty' condoms can be incorporated to suit personal tastes. Heavier black 'rubbers' are made but are often difficult to obtain.
Several thin latex sheaths and combined sheath/ball sacks are advertised. With thicker latex, if the size is right, the effect is excellent. Particularly if a ball-bag is included they can be quite a performance to get into - and it's not something somebody else can do for you - without a struggle!
Drainage tubes are built into some models on the market and can be useful.
A Ball Balloon is a lockable latex sphere approximately three inches in diameter when not stretched. Getting one into place and everything crushed into it can be quite an undertaking - often requiring tying a string around the testicles to stop them disappearing during the process. Talc or lubricant sometimes helps - pubic hair is usually a hindrance!
'Genital Bondage' involving rings pierced through the skin is a whole different subject already well covered in the specialist catalogues for piercing "jewellery".
Extreme examples of heavier metalwork being pierced into the genital area are not to everybody's taste - but are extremely effective
Expand notes on (and illustrate) HAVING, DEE RINGS OR VELCRO for strap fastening, ELECTRONIC DETERRANTS OR ALARM SYSTEMS

In this range from our Amsterdam supplier of rubber, various penile straps and latex pants are illustrated in the main catalogue. The latex Bondage Balloon (HR48 in Price List) still defies illustration. You have to try cramming everything into a three inch diameter circular bag through a two inch hole and tighten the strap to feel the effect. What's more it's virtually impossible for somebody to do it for you - you have to do it for yourself.
The latex sheaths (with or without drainage tubes) are equally difficult to get on first time - but you soon discover the knack.


(First published I978) (revised into a chapter in the book "So I Like To Get Tied-up ... So What!!?")
The image of a "strait-jacket" seems to hold a fascination for a wide variety of people. Most Escape Artists consider it to be a sure-fire crowd puller. Since HARRY HOUDINI first introduced the stunt (or at least so he claims) it has proved to be popular with a lot of people in a lot of places. Where does this fascination lie?
The very existence of a "Regulation" or officially approved strait-jacket should, surely, make most people cringe. Why doesn't the suggestion that such a piece of equipment might have been used in real-life situations make the whole idea repugnant? Why do crowds regularly gather to see someone strapped into such a barbaric device? I won't attempt to analyse the reasons - the fact is indisputable: vast numbers of people enjoy seeing such a happening. Just what percentage of the crowd speculates on what it might be like to have it done to them / do it to somebody else / have a shot at escaping .... who knows? The fact remains that being 'interested' in strait-jackets isn't all that unusual. What is a strait-jacket? Traditionally it's a reasonably tough fabric garment designed to prevent violent mentally disturbed patients and prisoners from causing harm to themselves and other people.
Strait-jackets or strait waistcoats can be anything from a simple smock with closed sleeve ends and tie tapes, to deliberately intimidating constructions of sailcloth, leather straps and metal hardware. The term "Regulation" usually suggests that it is an approved pattern, as used in a particular Institution or by a particular prison authority. In Britain the Home Office, which has responsibility for most Police and Prison furnishing, has at various times in the past approved specifications for several pieces of restraining clothing (although all information on the garments is "strictly classified").
Inevitably, the existence of such equipment has led to it being used as punishment as well as a last resort. In places where such an item would find very little actual use, to have some form of restrainer hanging around serves as a useful threat, to keep would-be troublesome patients in line. Historical records show that many jackets were purposely designed to look tough; extra bands of canvas and leather to suggest additional strength and durability. In reality these may not have been as efficient as a well constructed garment made from light weight pliable rip-proof canvas. Not only more comfortable, these lightweight jackets can be infinitely more confining if correctly cut and sewn - and efficiently applied.
Psychological impact: Seeing someone restrained by, strapping someone into, or being strapped into - is what we are dealing with here. Whether as a challenge or punishment, here is a situation in which energy and aggression can be worked off harmlessly. Although strait-jackets are seldom used now in most European countries - it is still recognised in some circles that the hugging tightness of a well-applied strait-jacket has a calming effect on some patients once they have exhausted all attempts to free themselves.
To escape from a strait-jacket can be an exhilarating experience for an escaper and anyone watching . Many spectators when watching an Escape Artist probably feel the urge to help strap the would-be escaper. What number of them would, secretly, like to "have a go" at struggling free?
Escaping from....... :
Techniques must necessarily vary with the design of jacket and manner in which it is
applied. In every instance the main aim should be to gain 'slack' when the garment is
strapped on. Every inch counts, particularly in the tightness of the arm straps. Factors
affecting escape:
(A) whether straps or tie tapes are used.
(B) if canvas is supple enough to use fingers through it.
(C) if it is possible to work the arms upwards or downwards.
(D) if armholes are wide enough to work arms out of sleeve by twisting jacket around
the body
Quick release .......
1. Gain as much slack as possible on arm straps by expanding chest and faking tightness by bracing elbows against sides as jacket is strapped on.
2. When ready to escape relax all muscles, hunch shoulders forward to bring all available slack to front. Then working systematically, ease buckle of arm-strap upwards until arms can be pulled free over head - or downwards to bring arms under seat
3 Work at straps or ties with fingers through canvas, or with teeth.
This routine is very much a matter of practice. To improve chances of escape by this method, when jacket is applied the right arm should be crossed over the left (unless you're left-handed), placing right hand on left bleep (that is, if you are allowed to 'get away with it') otherwise under left elbow. It is best to avoid allowing arms to be 'folded'. When trying to work both arms upwards and over the head, brace the elbow against a wall or door-handle. Or kneel down on one knee, using the other as a Pushing Post. The same effect can be accomplished by lying face down on the floor and rolling alternately from one elbow to the other, forcing the elbows closer together to increase slack in mitt straps. The easiest way to escape from a strait-jacket is to try and be sure that it is only ever strapped on by someone who has never done it before.
To prevent escape ...
Having studied and experimented with ways to escape from a strait-jacket it becomes more easy to devise ways to make escape more difficult.
Jackets used by Escape Artists usually have languish wide sleeves, loose neck-bands and
no strap between the legs. (Crotch strap).
A jacket with short, tight sleeves, snug under the armpits presents a much more exacting
challenge. A close high collar also adds to the general "cling" - and straps connecting
sleeves should be short with holes right up to the end .... and be very strong. The strain in
all directions on a well applied jacket can be intense, so all seams should be double sewn.
Additional defences: A crotch strap to prevent the body of the jacket being dragged over the head. Arm straps anchored through one of the back straps to stop arms being worked up or down the body (Jackets with a pair of loops from armpit to hem of the jacket through which sleeves can be passed, effectively prevent arms travelling.). Mitts of heavy material or leather to prevent tampering with buckles through sleeves will defeat many would-be Escape Artists. A small strap added around each wrist before the arms are crossed makes 'slipping' the jacket virtually impossible. Extra reinforcement of seams, elbows and neck will stop any attempts to wear a way out of an otherwise escape-proof jacket - but most important of all is to eliminate 'slack'.
Getting the jacket on: Even with a willing victim, applying a jacket single-handed needs practice. A particular awareness of the various tricks for gaining slack is essential. One way to eliminate stolen slack is, after threading the arm-strap as far as possible, to then stand to one side and brace your body against that of the victim. Using one hand to clamp prisoners elbows together, the back-strap can then be wrenched tighter at the same moment.
Two people applying a jacket can eliminate slack much more easily. As one pulls the arm-strap tight behind, the other can press the victims elbows together at the front. It is amazing how much further arms will reach across the chest with a little persuasion. Two people can also manage to 'fold' a victims arms even against quite violent opposition. The situation of an "unwilling victim" being forced into a strait-jacket is a complicated and potentially dangerous undertaking. As a test of ingenuity and stamina it can be fun. In a one-to-one situation it is virtually impossible unless the pair are very unequally matched. With two against one, if a 'routine' has been worked out in advance, it is possible to subdue a victim even if he is prepared to put up a healthy struggle. In any event it's certainly fun to try. Finally, extra defences against a would-be Escapee from any form of canvas restrainer include strapping feet together - threading a strong leather strap or 'pinion strap' set between elbows at the back - or lacing the hapless (helpless) bundle to a bed or short ladder (which must be safely anchored or laid on floor). Imagination, ingenuity and the element of surprise count for much in the field of escapes and the sort of challenges we have been discussing.
An interesting alternative to the crossed-arm strait-jacket is a lightweight canvas tube reinforced with webbing straps. This 'smock' is more easy to put on and its image has less direct 'strait-
jacket' connotations. Arms are not anchored inside this simple shoulder to crotch
covering, but makes them unable to inflict damage on the wearer or others, and provides
effective control for attendants.
Putting the smock onto a patient is also much simpler than a traditional strait-jacket. The tube can be slipped over the head with straps pre-threaded. Even the crotch strap at the front is simply hooked to it's counterpart inback and strap can be pulled tighter with one hand. The patients' arms can be left loose inside the smock or, if required, the wrists can be attached to hem of smock at thigh level with separate straps. Anchor points for bed-straps can also be added for total immobilisation.


Very few people can accurately anticipate their reaction to being put inside a dark restrictive 'soft space'. Whether voluntarily or as punishment, the experience is certainly something which changes and develops with time, more than most forms of restraint.
The initial impact is something the mind needs time to adjust to. For some people the first effect is overwhelming but then the mind and body quite soon accept the circumstances. Other people who anticipate little threat at being put into a bag may, after a very short time, develop an unexpected sense of helplessness or panic. Even after the first experience, changed circumstances outside the sack can produce dramatically different and unpredictable reactions.
In any event, the effect is usually progressive. So although very few people can accurately predict their reactions, the basic situation is attractive to many and discovering your own or someone else's level of tolerance in this field can be exhilarating.
Systematic experiments in the total reduction of sensory awareness (sound, sight, touch ) have bee conducted in universities and other establishments around the world. A variety of effects have been discovered and identified, and the associated techniques are now being applied in both space travel and 'brain washing'.
However, in the field of Erotic Bondage the back-to-the-womb experience can be, for many people, delightfully relaxing. A lot of FETTERS customers are able to 'switch off' by spending restful nights inside a SLEEPSACK. Even people who have to put themselves into the sack can stay put after the first excitement has worn off.
Whether you find that the experience intensifies with time or subsides into a relaxed and luxurious lack of responsibility - you won't know until you've tried it As long as no harsh pressure points threaten to interrupt circulation or cause chafing, different types of bag can be endured/enjoyed for hours. even when quite tightly plaid. With suitable drainage the period can he lengthened even further.
The full variety of different games people play is too broad to review here. Visual imagery, texture contact. dramatic situation, length of time, with or without hoods ..... The best advise to follow your own likes don't over complicate any situation too early in the game and constantly observe safety precautions, particularly if the 'victim' is not clearly visible.
When you've read his leaflet and done some particular experimenting, your suggestions as to what should be added to these notes (or anything you may disagree with) would be welcomed. Jim Stewart October ' 85.
In terms of restraint / confinement / endurance, 'The Bag' is a general area which offers a whole range of different alternatives.
For identification purposes, there are three main subdivisions:
1. Basic SACK
If large enough to take a whole human body with limbs fully extended, even with the head inside the sack most people can learn to deal with the situation at least for a short period. But the psychological effect, being accumulative, needs to be explored. Not knowing what is going on outside or hearing sounds rich may or may not be interpreted correctly is, in itself, powerfully effective.
A sack which does not allow room for full extension of the limbs is very much more potent. Even a slight reduction of mobility, without any other restrictions, can very quickly have a telling effect on both mind and body. Limbs soon react painfully and the mind acknowledges not only the discomfort but the vulnerability much sooner. Adjusting to the limited (though perfectly adequate) supply of air demands quite strenuous mental exercise. If the internal size of the bag is gradually reduced, the situation can soon become intensely oppressive.
The head outside a sack which is closed around the neck can perhaps intensify the feeling of helplessness. The neck cord need not be tight if wrists are secured inside the bag.
Suspension: If the sack is hung, putting body weight onto the
'walls' of the confined area, the physical experience is altered
completely, and can quickly become barely tolerable.
N.B. The strength and durability of any sack used for suspension must be equal to the task.
Similar in proportion to a conventional sleeping bag, this can also render the person inside totally helpless without any additional

restraint being applied. Many games have evolved from normal camping expeditions. Tough Government Surplus bags can form the basis of a very useful piece of equipment. 'D' rings added to serve as anchor points (or to prevent external straps from being worked free) can make an ordinary bag very versatile.
Whether the head is inside or out, such a gag can keep someone quite comfortably but totally confined for quite long periods. If the head is aside, a 'snorkel breathing pipe can be used to ensure an adequate supply of air (but constant monitoring is advisable). Bags made from waterproof or padded fabric can intensify the experience in terms of generated heat. Heavy cloths or additional restraints worn before the 'victim' is put into the bag can extend the parameters of the situation infinitely.
Being stood up or suspended within such a bag can completely change the tensions, but care must be taken. The possible danger of lifting or moving around the dead-weight of someone who is totally helpless perhaps needs a separate 'worksheet'.
This is a term used in the FETTERS catalogue to describe a more form fitting type of full-length bodybag. A soft and malleable covering can be used to subject a body to varying intensities of confinement through the use of added lacing or straps. Construction details depend entirely on the likes and dislikes of the users. As these are usually made to order, variations such as materials used, access points, anchoring points, strap or laced tightening possibilities are all optional.
The main thing is that the different concepts; a form fitting bag, a rectangular flat bag or kit-bag shaped sack with round bottom and straight walls cover most eventualities in the subject under review here.
In each of the three main 'bag' categories, standard patterns have been reached after much trial and error and customer feedback. These designs combine the most popular features and help reduce the number of choices left to someone investing for the first time in a custom made bag but, of course, specific features can be omitted or added.

Firstly, most designs can be made entirely from canvas with or without reinforcement panels and bands, from canvas with leather reinforcement or totally in leather. As you can imagine, the durability and erotic effect of each type of fabric makes them all very different, but does not change the basic structure.
Canvas: This is a 15 ounce cotton duck available in off-white, brown or black.
Leather: Heavy motorcycle clothing weight leather is used, usually black, but a pale natural colour is an attractive alternative for people who like, for example, the look of well lived-in Cowboy Chaps. The leather finish depends on current availability. Preferably, a not too shiny finish is chosen unless something otherwise is specifically requested.
Hardware: Large 'D' rings are always welded closed but those used for the lacing cord across the front are not always so (depending upon availability) but, because stress on these should only be moderate and only in one direction, this should cause no problems.
Zippers: Heavy duty (9 mm) black nylon zippers are usually used.
This combined the visual effect of an old fashioned Post Office parcel sack when made entirely from canvas. Normal size is a 24 inch diameter circular base and 36 inch high walls.
Colour of canvas used can dramatically change the visual effect. The natural off-white canvas either brown canvas or real soft leather reinforced bottom and hanging straps looks very workman-like and soon acquires a very lived in look. Black canvas with black canvas or leather reinforcement has a totally different impact.
The drawstring around the neck of the sack can be tightly secured or left tantalisingly loose or even used to allow the head outside the bag.
Four strong wide reinforcing straps can be used to hang the bag from four sold welded 'D' rings. Your own straps or cord wrapped around the bag can reduce the internal size quite drastically.

Breathing holes round the whole circumference of the walls are spaced so that, even when the internal size of the bag is reduced by half, there are still plenty of air holes uncovered.

Rectangular, semi flat construction. It has arched ends to prevent the upper layer of the bag from pressing on the face. Length approximately seven feet, width two-and-a-half feet.
Two zippers along one short edge allow locking (from outside or in). This opening can also be adapted to leave the head outside the bag, by linking the two zip pulls with a short piece of cord under the back of the neck (this design has been modified since the main catalogue was printed). Six large welded 'D' rings allow for the bag to be anchored to a bed or other surface. As there are air holes at both ends of the bag, the 'victim' can enter eider head or feet first.

Again the choice of all canvas, all leather or a combination of the two materials may not be entirely a matter of cost. The sensual and dramatic visual effects are completely different. The choice of colour combinations is, also, a matter of personal taste.
Certainly leather internal sleeves added to any canvas or canvas & leather SLEEPSACK can bring an element of luxury, especially if no clothes are to be worn inside.
Leather shiny side inside is another alternative choice when ordering an all leather SS (rather than the suede-side inside, as is usual in most leather "garments"). So, the look of someone laced and strapped into a shiny all-leather SLEEPSACK can be sensational from the outside but the feel of being naked inside - is something else. Of course shiny leather outside and leather lining inside is the ultimate but almost doubles the price!
The MARK2 has additional reinforcing bands (leather) around the body at the chest, waist, seat, above knees, below knees and at ankles. Attached to these bands are 12 large 'D' rings down the side profiles and two rows of smaller 'D' rings on metal plates four inches apart down the front of the sack.
All sacks have 26 cm high collar which closes to two sizes with snap fasteners at either side of the neck. Hoods do not attach to this but most good hoods cover the collar, making a neat closure.
Internal Sleeves: These internal pockets are attached to the sack from armpit to tips of fingers. They make the sack totally escape proof but can not be used by people who intend to put themselves into a SLEEPSACK.
Zipper action: Three tough black nylon zippers are standard to all SS. To close the front, one from ankles to approximately the crotch area, and the second from above the crotch to the throat.
Zippers have no backing flaps as these often crease up causing ridges when the SLEEPSACK is laced tighter, but for people with chest hair it may be a useful addition to ask for.
Back zipper: In both standard models this gives access from the waist to knees. This has it's uses, but for people who won't be using it, it can be (quite literally) a pain-in the ass. When ordering, it can be omitted on request.

An 'extra' which appeals to many people but can reduce the general comfort of a MARK2 SLEEPSACK is the addition of heavy leather shoulder straps. These are anchored from waist in front to waist in back, distributing the weight. Suspension is relatively comfortable in a Sleepsack, but unless tightly laced it can throw some extra tightness under the armpits.
Also note that it can be physically dangerous getting someone who is in a Sleepsack lying down into an upright position. All precaution should be taken that unexpected weight doesn't end up in you over balancing with someone unable to protect themselves.
TIT ACCESS: Holes in chest of a SLEEPSACK are another possible 'extra' but the position of holes tends to shift because of lacing. Open holes also reduce the sense of encasement but holes with openable covers offer a quite usable alternative. Clear

decisions on these matters of personal preferences should be made before ordering.
LATEX LINING: Requests for latex or oilskin lining are frequent and possible but usually the recommendation is that by not commit yourself to a lining, anything from a latex cat-suit, all rubber diving suit, foul weather naval oilskins or motorcycle leathers are practical alternatives inside a SLEEPSACK. A permanent latex lining may limit the time that can comfortably be spent in the sack, reduce the options available and practically double the price.
NO FOOT BAG: For some people into tickling torture or others who like to see a good hefty pair of boots, a SLEEPSACK without feet is a practical alternative. No foot bag does reduce the totality of putting someone into a 'sack' but there are several practical advantages including using the bag on people of different heights.
HORIZONTAL SUSPENSION: An imaginative FETTERS customer in Cleveland USA has come up with the idea of a free-hanging SLEEPSACK but we had to supply a special sling to make it possible. Getting the Sleepsack suspended level involves a length process of tying off 12 ropes with the encased body on a long table. When the ropes are all made off, the table (or could be hospital trolley) is then removed and the isolation is total.
N.B. Again it must be stressed that standard 'D' rings should not be used for suspension.
HOODS: The front closing of the Sleepsack collar prevents attaching hoods, most of which have back closing. The BAG HOOD is the most useful for the use with a SLEEPSACK. Any tighter hood takes time to unlace in case of emergency. The question of whether the hood collar should be under or over the SLEEPSACK collar is a matter of personal choice and discretion.
ZIPPER ALTERNATIVE: Some people may prefer a single front zip from ankles to throat. This can be added if preferred but it does not prevent access at cock level.
BODY STRAP SETS: The additional effect of six leather straps around the body may also feel good even if they are not strictly necessary! The straps can be threaded through the larger ' D' rings (which are strategically place down the sides of the MARK 2) and encircle the whole body. This means threading them before the body is in the bag or indulging in a lot of rolling around and weight shifting to get them into position.
Alternatively, after the sack has been closed, the straps can be slid through the side 'D' rings WRONG SIDE UP across the top of the body and then strapped closed IN FRONT pulling the sides of the sack tightly towards the front. This means that the added tightness is in the form of canvas rather than six narrow bands of leather.
N.B. The 'D' rings on the SLEEPSACK are not designed to take any suspended weight.

More and more, FETTERS is discovering that detailed instructions for the use of some pieces of equipment are helpful to many customers. The general objective of, say, a SLEEPSACK is quite obvious to anyone meeting one for the first time (whether it's made to measure or a general size to fit all comers) but a prescribed routine for getting it on and closed for the first time can save energy, confusion and broken fingernails. Suggestions for alternative and elaborated uses may also irk some people but can act as a useful stimulus for more ingenious people to discover the additional variations.
First time putting on or climbing into a FETTERS SLEEPSACK can seem slightly complicated. It's not a piece of equipment you can physically force someone into. The sack should be lain out flat on the floor or bed with the two front zippers open and the back one closed. The intended wearer, dressed or undressed as preferred should then sit into it and put the feet/boots down into the foot-bag. Next, lying back (perhaps with some help by having the collar lifted slightly), arms can the slid into the internal sleeves. Once the arms are in position it should be possible to lie back, leaving the front free for closing.
First time users may find things slightly tight, but the sack will 'give' slightly. If the wearer can be persuaded to move tighter upward into the shoulder area, closing the ankle zip for the first time will be made easier.
ZIPS: The slightly complicated process of starting off the open ended zippers (similar to anorak zippers) needs a little practice. Make sure that the ends are fully connected before beginning to slide them. By tightening the leather ankle strap first, strain is taken off the actual zipper ends as they are connected.
Close the first zip only partially, leaving space to engage the top zipper which, because it has a 'pull on each end means that TWO 'pulls' have to be at the bottom before the zipper can be connected and begin to side.
By gripping the sides of the sack, extra slack can make the engaging of the top zipper much easier. Once it is closing smoothly, close it to chest level.
Collar: First close the first snaps on the inside. You will now notice a single snap fastener base on the collar. This is for the snap on the top 'pull' of the top zip. It will prevent the zipper being worked down after being closed. Fasten his (avoiding pressing on the Adam's Apple) and close the second set of collar snaps.
Because the top zipper is "double pull' the gap at crotch height can be opened for access or locked closed with a padlock (not included in list price).
Basically, the sack is now closed and escape proof. Any other lacing, strapping or lashing down to surfaces, hoods, gags, etc. are a matter of your personal taste or imagination.
Lacing: The small 'D' rings down the front of a MK2 allow for considerable tightening, including feet. Nylon cord or picture cord is suitable. Two pieces, each 6 to 10 feet long, are recommended. This avoids having to deal with too long a piece of cord. It's usually more practical to start lacing from chest to waist and then feet to crotch area. The degree of tightness depends on the stamina of the 'victim' and levels of endurance but too tight lacing can seriously reduce the length of time for which the sack is bearable.
Further adjustments: If using a sack which is too large for the occupant, by using a cord between the 'D' rings across the back of the sack, the general circumference of the sack can be reduced.
Alternative method of putting someone into a SLEEPSACK: It is dangerous to try and zip or lace someone into a Sleepsack while standing up unless the shoulders of the sack the securely anchored to the ceiling with feet touching the floor. The first moves can be made with the 'victim' sitting on stool or chair, then standing while ankles and collars have been closed and shoulder straps attached to a ceiling safety line.
Many people like the idea of being able to sleep all night or spend prolonged periods encased in a sleepsack or bodybag. Used with caution and ingenuity this is perfectly possible and relatively safe. The addition of other restraints, padlocks and hoods does, of course, increase the possibility of something going wrong.
A SLEEPSACK self-applied presents few problems, except that the arms can not be in the internal pockets.
The routine for getting in unaided is as follows.
a) Open the two front zippers having attached a 12 inch loop of thin cord to the lower pull of the TOP zipper.
b) Lay the bag on floor or bed
c) Climb in and close ankle strap and collar (inside & outside snaps).
d) Engage lower zipper and pull three quarters of the way up.
f) Engage top zipper at crotch and move BOTH pulls towards throat. This will mean moving hands from their position above the top zip pulls to below them.
g) Having taken both top zip pulls to throat, anchor top pull to collar snap.
h) Settle back and draw bottom pull of top zipper down to waist (using cord loop.
This will leave your hands free inside the closed sack. If wearing clothes you may be able to force your hands deep down inside trouser pockets for a feeling of more complete helplessness.
Alternatively, by working first one hand behind and into the small of your back and then the same with the other, the weight of the body then traps them there until you work free.
If you loose any circulation, the process of re-opening the sack may be more complicated than you anticipated. The pulls do not open as easily from inside - so allow time - and avoid panic if things don't seem to be going too well. A short rest and relax can work wonders. Take the pull of the top zipper right up to the neck, open collar and then work both pulls down carefully, avoiding dragging either pull too far from the line of the zipper teeth. Strain on side of a zipper whilst it's being slid may result in jamming - or more permanent damage. By changing body tensions strain on zippers can be reduced.
The first few times you use a SLEEPSACK solo, if you can have somebody around to help out just in case you encounter unexpected difficulties - it is a good precaution. Again it can't be stressed too often that the addition of a hood or padlocks can complicate easy exit from this situation. A padlock across the crotch zipper with the key released INSIDE the bag may result in hours of manoeuvring to retrieve it - but if you drop it as you attempt to re-open the padlock and it lands outside the sack - you're there till somebody comes to your rescue.
The whole question of AUTO BONDAGE (self-applied restraints) deserves a lengthy 'Worksheet. Written descriptions and ideas are currently being sought. Your contributions would be welcome.
This is much less complicated, being simply an oblong bag with two zips to close it at one end. There are adequate breathing holes at both ends . ........ REVISE / ADD TO

This was described in previous catalogues but is not included in the current one . Recently we have had several requests for a bodybag which allowed a degree of self-applied restraint. The old design is being re-thought - but your ideas for developing the principle would be of interest.
The idea is to include in the BODYBAG Mk2 ankle loops which would keep the feet apart (boot or no boots would need to be specified when ordering). Secondly, an internal 'pocket' the full width of the bag and reaching from shoulder blades to approximately the finger ends.
Once inside with the zip closed, by rolling slightly to one side, one arm can be worked behind the back and upwards into the pocket. Then, by relaxing, that arm is trapped flat against the side of the body, but separated from it by the wall of the 'pocket'. Next, rolling the weight of the body in the other direction makes it possible to trap the second arm in the 'pocket'. The weight of the relaxed body creates a feeling of considerable restriction.
Release is achieved by the slightly laborious process of rolling the body first to one side and working one arm free and then repeating on the other side.
All FETTERS bodybags, Sleepsacks and Mailsacks are made to take considerable stress - but additional cords which pull 'D' rings or rivets in unplanned-for directions should be avoided. 'D' rings on the sides were designed to be used as anchor points - preferably when bodystraps are also through them, giving them stability. These 'D' rings should not be used as suspension points
In any event, games involving bags and sacks can give hours of challenging and rewarding enjoyment for those inside and outside.


Because the head is the centre of sight/hearing/taste/smell, the simple act of hooding or even blindfolding effectively changes the whole personality balance. In a series of scientific tests it was proved that by creating the effect of separating head from body, to most of the people tested, the head represented "self" and in the circumstances the body could be viewed as a totally detached object.
The attractions and advantages of hooding in Erotic Bondage games and 'Scenes' fall into two main categories
The visual effect:
Not only can hoods look very dramatic, by removing the identifiable appearance the wearer a hood can:
A) Act as a release for a self-conscious 'victim',
B) Release the person outside from inhibitions caused by familiarity with (or fear of) the hooded person
C) Free both parties to fantasise that they are dealing with someone quite different. (However, at the same time, it is important that when hooding someone this does not seem to indicating that you don't like the look of the person you're with).
The general phenomenon of masks has been the subject of several books. The psychological effects on both wearer and viewer are rooted deep in the human mind. A false or featureless face makes it difficult to relate to it as another human being. A mask or hood may be deliberately designed to create a particular character or dramatic image, or the aim may be to de-personalise. Certainly the removal of direct eye contact or expression, even behind dark glasses, goggles or a mask with "pinhole" eyes (which allow the wearer to see but hides any expression in their eyes) results in a high degree of depersonalisation. Total removal of 'facial expression' is more difficult to achieve because the shape of every seam, line of stitching, eye or mouth-hole may create the appearance of facial features. The androidal image given by some conventional leather masks can be very attractive to see, and at the same time allow the wearer to either become someone else or nobody in particular
Fantasy masks.
In the field of Erotic Bondage the general range of mask images available has been very limited. Fantasy Character or Personality masks" seems to be a whole area ripe for development.
The tactile effect:
Texture and shape affects both the wearer and controller. Whether skin tight, heavily padded, rigid or box-like, or inflated and distorted in form .... from inside and out a range of very sensual alternatives are possible. Each hood or helmet can to some extent be played like a musical instrument. The acoustic properties of leather being caressed by gloved or ungloved fingers, a more rigid casing being drummed on, the introduction of inescapable sound all can be used as part of sensual games. Other sensual changes such as inability to see, muffling of speech or hearing can heighten any effect. Pressure and tightness of a hood can be varied to modulate the intensity of a 'Scene'. Because the head is the centre for so many different senses a hood or helmet can create a sense of total 'imprisonment' even when no other form of restraint is used.
Hoods for "Tops":
This is a subject to explore. Masks or hoods specifically for the dominator of a situation could also be an interesting area for development.
Elements of de-personalization or change of character can often help the controller of any Scene. The design of the hood may be less restrictive, but whether used for visual dramatic effect or just to hide the identity of one or more people involved in a scene it opens up new territories. Certainly an unhooded 'victim' under the control of unrecognisable people is a reversal which has a powerful impact.

In general hoods are reasonably safe to use. Certainly, tightness of the neck and adequate air should be of prime concern. Leaving somebody unattended when hooded is a matter of personal capacity and perhaps even mutual agreement - but the controller must be aware of the risks and assume full responsibility. (Notes on the legal responsibilities of S/M games are being compiled - contributions welcome).
A less obvious Safety Factor is that the face soon begins to swell inside a hood. A nose opening which is large enough when the hood is first put on may soon become partially obstructed as the cheeks swell. This can lead to serious discomfort if not something more dangerous.
Another important general point is that what is bearable at first may cause panic when other factors such as restriction of movement or intensity of action change.
Other safety points worth noting:
A) Breathing holes might become blocked when a hood shifts during action. Particularly if anchored in some way a hood can easily move.
B) Mouth/eye zippers are popular with people who like a variety of opportunities. Facial hair can be a problem, zips should be opened and closed with care, and if possible have some backing to them. Pressure upon either opened or closed zips can be painful and damage the skin.
C) "Poppers" used with hoods or helmets can have unexpected results. Because of restricted breathing, fumes can be more potent and perhaps hang around longer. Expect the unexpected until you have personal experience to guide you.
D) A very tight hood can cause wearer to bite inside of cheeks.
E) If the wearer of an eyeless hood is in darkness for too long this may produce a state of slight mental disorientation. When a hood is removed care should be taken because both thought and movement of the 'victim' may not be predictable.
F) In the same circumstances light can be painful on eyes which have been in darkness for even a short length of time.
G) NEVER use a hood to suspend body- weight.
The effect on neck and spine can be disastrous - and 'D' rings on hoods are seldom designed to take serious strain!
H) Gags under hoods which have no mouth holes aren't recommended. In an emergency such as vomiting, the whole hood has to be removed - and laces can get into knots.
So, finally, as a general note; more particularly than in any other form of bondage game having a pair of sharp scissors (preferably blunt-pointed) handy to cut laces or in emergency the hood itself is a wise precaution.
A hood which can allow the wearer to see or not see, talk or not talk gives much more variety to the action. However, in practical terms these options can also weaken the general structure or visual impact of a hood. Certainly, too many metal snap-on fasteners can make it uncomfortable to wear. The act of pressing on a snap-fastener cover to close eyes or mouth may cause in painful bruising. Some people don't seem to mind this and feel it worth it to have the variable effect.
The degree of tightness possible may depend on whether the leather is soft and pliable or heavy and tough. Aiming for a hood which allows too many alternatives may result in it not fulfilling any one purpose well, and cost as much as buying a heavy duty plus a more soft and supple hood.
Before buying a hood it is worth considering the following points:
Lacing :
Adjustment of a hood to different sized and shaped heads, and different degrees of pressure is usually achieved by lacing - but this can also be a tedious business - particularly if the victim is already lying down.
A useful alternative is the type of hood which has two side laces for adjustment plus a back zip to allow easy removal and replacement. Conversely, this adds hardware and may result in discomfort lying on side laces. Velcro tape offers a possible alternative for closing hoods, and certainly allows finer adjustment. Experiments are being made. Your ideas and news of improved materials are always welcome.
Closed or open nose?:
The distinction in the FETTERS catalogue is of a hood with totally open-ended nose or one which has closed end with breathing holes. The latter does give a greater sense of being inside something. However, a nose with the bottom end open may be essential to some wearers. Even mouth breathing holes may be necessary to avoid the fear of not being able to breathe.
A hood with no eyes may not be light-proof if the nose has an open end - unless eye-pads and even a strap across the eyes is keeping pads tightly in position. (Eye pads can be impractical for wearers of contact lenses). Breathing is further restricted in eyeless hoods because eye holes also admit a certain amount of air.
Pinhole eyes:
This useful alternative to complete eye holes gives the wearer limited vision without allowing the expression in the eyes to be a means of communication. It also avoids the face of the hood
assuming a recognisable personality (which eye holes of any shape tend to give).
As an alternative to or addition to a hood, a simple blindfold can be very useful in many games or 'Scenes'. The traditional handkerchief is very unstable and can easily be dislodged. A shaped leather blindfold which is basically flat often allows limited vision. Only a padded and adjustable one can be guaranteed to exclude all light. Pressure on contact lenses has already been mentioned.
Blindfolds which attach to hoods with snap fasteners have also been discussed. A single snap-fastener, well to the side of the hood is usually better than snaps over the cheekbones. A separate blindfold with an adjustable strap which can if necessary be anchored to a hood is the ideal solution.
Closed or open mouth?:
Ideally, a removable cover gives more opportunities, but even the softest hood, if tailored to fit closely, may prevent the jaw from opening fully. Even a gag which holds the mouth wide may be usable with a relatively snug hood. But, for any activity when the jaw may have to "work", a very tight chin on a hood can be a drag!
A zip mouth gives a simple practical alternative - but brings with it problems already mentioned under Safety. Although a removable chin section can be added to most of the FETTERS hood patterns, this will reduce the amount of tightening possible and add at least eight snap fasteners to an area which may be tender. A removable muzzle cup attached by straps around and over the top of the head may be another practical alternative.
Most FETTERS Standard hoods have soft two inch collars - which allow for collars of firmer leather or metal to be used over the top when required. However, some hood models do have a firmer narrow neck strap and 'D' ring centre front fixed permanently. Study the revised descriptions of the 'Standard' hoods. Minor details can be changed when ordering.
Longer collars can also be attractive. Soft fitted collars breaking onto the shoulders have great visual appeal, but don't always fit very neatly.
An even longer collar on a hood, reaching down both back and front to a strap which circles the chest and back (under the armpits) has a particularly dramatic appeal and psychological effect.
Back vent alternatives:
Whether a hood has laces or zipper, some form of internal lining to prevent hair getting caught or sticking out is essential. For most zippers a three inch wide 'tongue' of soft leather is all that's necessary. For laces, anything wider tends to get scrunched up and look untidy.
A full vent fixed to both back edges of the hood allows it to fully envelope the head even before it's fastened has many advantages. This then scrunches up to form a ridge of soft padding under laces or zipper and does not look too untidy!
Eyelets or Cinch Rings:
These are a matter of personal choice. On a very soft leather hood cinch rings (as on hiking boots) are stronger than eyelets, and many people find them easier to thread. Conversely, some people complain that the rivets in cinch rings dig into the scalp if laced too tightly. With a full vent under them, this is avoided. Descriptions for each hood in the FETTERS range lists whether cinch rings or eyelets are 'standard'- but your order can specify your preference.
Lockable hoods:
A simple padlock through the bottom two 'D' rings of a hood with laces locked inside (out of reach of fingers) can have a strong psychological effect. However, a zipped panel which closes over lacing and locks to the collar is a new and very effective 'extra' available for most hoods. This makes the hood impossible to remove even when hands are free. However, it does also reduce the degree of adjustability of the hood lacing.
'D' rings and attachment points:
Several illustrations in the current catalogue show 'D' rings on the tops of hoods. These are very useful for attaching and restricting head movement - but on very soft hoods these can easily tear the leather - and perhaps press into the scalp. They are no longer 'Standard' on most hoods. You need to ask for them when ordering.
Attachments can cause a hood to shift and move breathing holes away from nostrils. Hood fixing points should never be used to suspend body weight.
Other openings:
Holes for ears, pony tails and beards are other possibilities. Certainly the imaginative use of headphones for music, speech or "White noise" can add to any Scene.
Other decoration:
Whether ornamental or giving specific character to the masked head such additions to a hood can be used to great effect. Whether permanently fixed or temporary (glued or drawn on) they can be used to reinforce a fantasy or humiliate the wearer. Open faced hoods:
These are useful as a basis for attaching gags, blindfold or face-mask to while giving access to the face when required. The exact line of the facial opening demands accurate measurements and very specific instructions when ordering. Muzzles or Bridles over hoods:
These can be used very effectively over soft hoods perhaps to intensify the situation for a short period during a longer scene. With heavier head harnesses the soft hood underneath can reduce wear-and-tear on the skin and prolong the time for which they can be worn, but from a safety point of view, this also means there are two to take off in an emergency. A chinless hood with eye holes can have a second hood over it quite safely. Semi-rigid hoods:
Most of the standard hoods listed can have more solid panels riveted to them to add weight and rigidity. This is a relatively new development. If it sounds attractive - make your demands. We can't resist a challenge.
Solid helmets:
Psychologically, a more firm 'box' is a very different experience. These are necessarily less close-fitting, and there is a tendency to rub the skin. Medieval knights wore soft leather 'balaclavas' under their metal helmets. So far we've found nobody willing to make iron helmets in the "Man in the Iron Mask" tradition - but a series of prototypes made in rigid leather are looking good. We're still working on them - and welcome the impetus of someone actually arriving on our doorstep knowing exactly what they want. The possibility of sculpted heads (with or without defined personality) perhaps made in glass fibre - and lockable - offer many exciting alternatives. With soft padded interior and rigid finger-proof outside shell, these would have many visual, tactile and practical uses.
Wrapped heads:
Adhesive tape, leather thongs, clingfilm or soft rubber strips can all be used to create an instant helmet in a mummification scene. Degree of tightness and ability to breathe must, naturally, be carefully controlled. With adhesive tape it's perhaps advisable to use a stocking or thin polythene sheet as a base. Method of cutting them off also needs pre-planning.
Cooking foil can be used to create a semi-rigid 'metal' helmet. If carefully removed (and thick enough) this might be re-used or dissected to make a pattern for a more permanent form-fitting helmet. In any event the wrapping process can in itself be an exhilarating experience for whoever is being wrapped or doing the wrapping (or watching).
Black box:
Scientific experiments in total reduction of sensitivity resulted in the development of a wooden box lined and padded to hold a head immovable inside. Fixed to floor or bed this completely isolates the head from the world (and from the rest of the body). Breathing through a tube (mouth and nose) is controllable. Psychologically the rigidity of the box creates a very very powerful effect - and it's not for the timid.
Sports helmets:
A variety of practical protective headgear for boxing, fencing, Kendo or other Martial Arts offers a wide range of practical and dramatic uses. Motorcycle crash helmets, particularly the Open Face type, can be used in conjunction with face covers, soft hoods and gags producing a range of excellent results. A crash helmet has the added advantage of being usable in 'outdoor' adventures. Old fashioned Flying helmets also have a very definite visual appeal - if you can find one. (If anyone has an old one we can copy - we'll welcome the opportunity to make them more easily available). Gas Masks can also be incorporated with some helmets. A variety of types are easily available by mail-order. Other helmets and masks used in industrial health and safety breathing situations can be interesting.
Rubber hoods:
Flexible moulded light latex hoods are quite readily available with or without eyes/mouths, with mouth tubes, with built-in gags, open faced or totally enclosed. Used in conjunction with other hoods or helmets these soft latex hoods can add an extra element to any Scene. Heavier rubber hoods including inflatables have unique properties of both feel and visual effect but are more expensive and more difficult to find.
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