COMPLETE TEXT STARTS HERE
1 = GAGS
Like all other types of restraint, mouth stuffers and covers are mainly
a matter of personal capacity - and dare one say - taste!
Whatever the name of your particular game, both physically and psychologically
any stuffer, mouth-cover or head harness can create effects which
may be either exhilarating or devastating.
To surrender control of verbal communication is a supreme act of submission.
The physical intrusion of something into the mouth can be a traumatic
experience - but it can also be a "release", because his
allows the gagged person to respond vocally in a more extravagant
way than usual. Without disturbing the controller or distressing the
neighbours, an efficient gag offers the luxury of a good healthy shout
and scream, which some people find very liberating.
Another attraction is the physical pleasure or relief of biting into
As verbal communication is more completely stifled, so it becomes
more important to monitor the victim carefully. Particular responsibility
is demanded when the victim is effectively immobilised as well as
Choking or gagging on something inserted in the mouth can be unpredictable.
In case of an involuntary and uncontrollable reaction, any gag must
be easily removable. As a general principle a gagged person should
not be left unsupervised. Particular care should be taken if someone
is gagged lying on their back.
Teeth can be a limiting factor. Damage to either teeth or false dentures
must be avoided. Pressing the lips too tightly against teeth can often
reduce the length of time a willing victim can endure gagging. Also,
the distance teeth and jaw will open varies considerably: A wide gag
which one person finds quite acceptable may be too much for another
(jaws can be dislocated).
Nasal breathing causes strain for many people. Temporary sinus problems
or a cold can reduce the capacity of someone who has previously had
no trouble. By breathing deeply and slowly a person can increase his/her
ability to endure a situation which may at first seem threatening
- but a lot of people are unable to breathe adequately through the
nose alone. Gags which allow breathing are generally not as sound-proof
- but there are circumstances when a tube gag has additional advantages.
Saliva is another factor to take into account. Some types of gag produce
much more saliva than others. This can't always be swallowed, and
if the victim is lying face down it can stain bedding or carpets.
Alternatively, some gags can make a mouth uncomfortably dry. A soft
stuffing such as a knotted scarf can dry the mouth when first applied.
Damping the fabric can often be effective.
Dust must also be a consideration if the victim is lying on a carpet
or in a dusty environment.
Drugs and gags in particular don't mix. As we've already suggested,
the best general rule is - steer clear.
The sterilising and thorough cleansing of anything used as a gag is
imperative. Leather stuffers and gum shields should be used by one
person only. Gags which can be soaked in antiseptic fluid offer minimal
The immediate effect of anything inserted into or covering the mouth
is a sense of helplessness - but with experience it becomes obvious
that many traditional images of gags, as seen in films and TV are,
in fact, ineffective.
The tongue and teeth have considerable power to dislodge a gag. Mobility
of the jaw usually allows even the tightest cloth wrap-around gag
or adhesive tape to be displaced eventually. Something stuffed into
the mouth can often be used to dislodge what is supposed to keep the
stuffing in place.
BUCKLES D' RINGS
Single strap (??** IS THERE LOST TEXT FROM HERE???)
Holes in a buckle-strap for gag or head-harness should be no more
than half an inch apart. Even so this may not allow for accurate enough
adjustment. A soft strap threaded through double 'D' rings is infinitely
variable and still perfectly secure.
Straps closed only by Velcro tape can be quite secure especially if
the strap doubles back through a loop before Velcro makes contact.
This can be rubbed loose unless steps are taken to prevent the possibility.
Traditionally gags fasten behind the neck - but a front or side fixing
has many advantages. The psychological effect of a buckle actually
over the mouth is quite powerful.
MOUTH OPEN OR CLOSED:
Held open with either a solid wedge, soft stuffer or solid bung with
a breathing/feeding hole - each can provide for different opportunities
- but many people find that a wide-open jaw soon begins to ache painfully
and swallowing/dribbling become problems.
A closed mouth is less able to create noise, especially if also filled
and covered. To clamp the mouth closed requires strapping not only
around behind the neck but also from chin over crown of head. This
strap may also need to be anchored to prevent the 'victim' rubbing
it loose. Locking of such a harness is complicated - but if the victims
hands can not reach it, there is no problem.
Another consideration is that even when a mouth is efficiently stuffed
and covered, noise and vocal communication remains possible. It is
the outside of cheeks and around the larynx which needs to be stifled.
Of all the different types listed, it is not until you reach 'muzzles'
that the configurations described below give maximum noise reduction.
SINGLE STRAP FIXING:
This is the usual image for any gag - but by flexing the neck and
chin considerable strain can be put on the gag-fixing. Unless very
tight, fabric can be stretched and a strap dislodged. A very tight
fixing may damage the corners of the mouth particularly if strapped
across an open mouth.
STRAP WITH ATTACHMENT:
Something in the mouth attached to a strap is much less easy to work
loose - but still the strap may cut the corners of the mouth.
Used with any attachment inside the mouth this is more secure and
comfortable. if the cover is broad enough it can also reduce the sound
This is usually shaped to fit under the chin as well as over mouth
and cheeks - but requires at least one extra strap over the head (usually
plus others to hold these firmly in place). When designed to clamp
the mouth closed rather than cover a wedge gag, it can be an almost
Many different configurations are possible - but these all produce
a powerful psychological effect - by surrounding the head with straps.
However, although thick leather and heavy hardware may look more dramatic,
it may limit time the harness can be worn. Pressure points around
the head/nose/neck are potentially dangerous. A harness which feels
limp and lightweight in the hands may fit better and feel very powerful
when strapped in place. Used in conjunction with a hood or helmet
the effect can be particularly intense (However, remember - it must
be possible to remove any gag quickly in an emergency).
Incidentally, when a head-harness is being put on, be sure to get
it centred right so as not to obstruct nasal breathing or pull down
on the bridge of the nose.
Traditional strappery for a horse, and used to hold a bit in place
and control head movement - perhaps with attached reins.
Some head-harnesses have built-in or detachable blindfolds. One aim
is to rob the wearer of personality - or make him/her less recognisable.
These very useful devices concentrate attention by forcing the wearer
to rely on other less well-developed senses (also, making them more
Obscuring the vision is easy but to produce a totally light-proof
simple blindfold requires a good shape and some padding. This may
place slight pressure on eye-balls, so contact lenses must taken into
account. Single-strap blindfolds can usually be rubbed off the head
- if such movement is allowed.
HOODS & HELMETS:
These are dealt with in the main catalogue and are a slightly different
category. Used in conjunction with gags many types of soft leather
hoods can be very effective. Hoods with mouth openings, through which
gags can be inserted, are usually preferable to closed hoods laced
over a gag.
Other headgear such as motorcycle helmets can serve to isolate the
wearer and increase the sense of helplessness. Sports stores also
stock a range of face-guards and protective masks which can be useful
to imaginative players.
These automatically reduce ability to make noise. Used with a snorkel
breathing mouth-piece or any 'stuffer' they are a very effective form
of gag. However, making a gas-mask impossible to remove by rubbing
against a surface can only be achieved by devising a separate series
of straps for the back of the mask - or totally immobilising the head.
GASMASKS WITH BACKS??**(add text)
SHAPES AND SIZES
A semi-soft ball, depending on its size can fit between the teeth
or behind them in the mouth. Ball gags are often pictured on a thong
or light chain. As such they're an inexpensive and efficient toy -
but they do tend to cut the corners of the mouth. A wider strap is
advisable if used for any length of time. You can find suitable balls
in toy and pet stores - both are likely to be made from non-toxic
materials. The same can not be said of shaped bungs, etc. bought from
hardware or motor-supply sources.
A largish ball forced beyond the teeth and into the mouth can be effective
(if the ball will come out again without too much dental strain).
A smaller ball completely in the mouth, anchored to a mouth-cover
and the mouth clamped closed, has a whole different feel and can be
very effective (A squash ball is an ideal size for most people).A
larger soft foam ball, sold in many toy shops, is an interesting alternative.
Squeezed small it will fill a mouth very effectively and can be held
in position with just a light strap. It will also absorb and hold
a considerable amount of liquid, which can intensify the situation.
Suitable shapes can be found, but the chemical composition of the
material may be questionable. Rubber door-stops in various sizes have
been used to great effect when attached to a mouth cover.
The ideal shape is a slice of orange. This can be whittled from wood
and covered with leather or rubber (with or without padding).
Wedging only the front centre of the teeth may create dental problems
for some people. A wedge which follows the tooth line is safer - and
with something added to press down on the tongue, this can be very
A traditional gag, used by surgeons before anaesthetics were invented,
was a piece of wooden dowel padded with sheepskin and covered with
leather. Two leather thongs attached to either end were passed behind
the head, wound round the opposite ends of the bar and then fastened
behind the head. The rubber bar (HR??**) is also a simple and practical
Actual harness bits come in many shapes and sizes. Pony-size is usually
best, and ones with a rubber bar are easier on the teeth. Whether
incorporated into a bridle and reins or just used on a single strap,
this piece of authentic equipment has a quite unique feeling when
used in a Scene.
'O' RING GAGS:
Although they hold the mouth well open, metal rings (whether covered
with leather or not) put all pressure on the side teeth . So any jolt
which causes sudden mouth movement could be dangerous.
Some people find an 'O' ring can be turned in the mouth and is therefore
ineffective. To prevent this the strap should be at least an inch
Embedded in a wide mouth-cover, plastic plumbing pipe or rubber hose
can make useful breather-gags'. The maximum diameter of the pipe is
determined by the distance between teeth (or by the object of the
exercise). Again, all pressure is on the front-centre teeth so care
must be taken. If a stopper the size of the tube's internal diameter
can be found, a dual purpose gag can be made.
These fall into two categories, those which hold the mouth open and
those which allow the teeth to close. Apart from the pre-formed balls
and bungs already mentioned, hand-made soft stuffers are available
made from leather, rubber and moulded plastic (including a penis-head
shape). It should not be possible to bite through the 'neck' of an
open mouth stuffer (see gum shields).If this situation appeals to
you, it is worth experimenting to discover the approximate size and
shape (open and closed) of your mouth interior. Using a thin plastic
bag and some small pieces of fabric, allow the corner of the bag into
your mouth and then load in fabric until the mouth is comfortably
full. Twist the neck of the bag and bite down to mould a shape. The
measurement of the circumference and length will give a useful indication
of the size you need when making or buying something more permanent.
Psychologically these promise well, but there are several problems.
If not strongly inflated it is possible for the teeth to puncture
it. If inflated too strongly it can press onto the back of the throat
and cause breathing difficulties or even jaw damage. Some people maintain
that if an inflatable bladder pops' in the mouth this can cause serious
damage to the lungs. Discussions with several doctors have produced
conflicting opinions on this point.
BOXERS' GUM SHIELDS:
A pair of these can be made into a very efficient gag and mouth immobiliser.
After being softened in hot water they form a mould giving a plastic
casing to the full arc of the teeth (they can only be worn by one
person). An upper and lower set of these can then safely be wedged
apart because the pressure is equally distributed and thus the teeth
A breather wedge made to fit between two sets of Gum Shields can be
excellent for many situations. A mouth clamped closed on Gum Shields
is totally immobilised and if cheeks are covered, this makes an almost
These are very specialised pieces of equipment, used in both heterosexual
and homosexual games. Even when not used for penetration, the humiliation
of being made to wear it plus the implied threat, make it a powerful
device. If it is intended for actual use, the protuberance must be
solidly anchored to the mouth-cover and perhaps connected to a stuffer'
in the mouth.
A small piece of tape stuck over the mouth to silence a victim is
a film and TV cliché. In reality it is not so simple. Because
of the flexibility of the cheeks and jaw the tape must be wide enough,
long enough and stuck over the mouth when open to make it effective.
Alternatively the jaw has to be taped upwards before the mouth is
A mouth stuffer used in a taped mouth can be used to push the cover
off. Wrapping narrow tape around the head and across the open mouth
to hold stuffing in place is effective but can cause the victim to
bite into his/her flesh inside the mouth. Fabric based Duct-tape'
can be very useful - particularly when wrapped around both the gag-line
and from under chin round over the top back of head. Two points to
be borne in mind are that removing adhesive tape can be painful and
the possible toxicity of industrial tape.
2 = CHASTITY BELTS
Attempting to chart this and other 'territories', brainstorming sessions
with several different game-players produced a series of basic fact
Because the following notes cover both the fantasy and reality of
chastity belts they have since been used as a starting point for discussion
on many occasions.
FIRST THOUGHTS (September l980)
The situation of a woman locked into an indestructible crotch cover
to protect her from sexual assault or to prevent promiscuity while
her husband was off on a Holy Crusade has featured in romantic fiction
for hundreds of years.
Today this idea of enforced fidelity (of one or both partners) seems
to have a new appeal in our free-and-easy lives. To surrender such
very personal freedom (either willingly or under threat) certainly
adds zest to a relationship. Whether as punishment, a symbol of domination
or a sign of mutual commitment, this sort of activity can take any
relationship on to a different level. For both partners to accept
limitation of access to their own bodies when apart can create even
more dramatic situations.
To be left alone at home, or to be out and about at the office or
factory, while locked into a restraint of this very personal nature
is a constant reminder of dependency that can create hours of highly
stimulating sexual excitement.
The traditional medieval type of "T" shaped metal girdle
is what most people imagine when the subject is mentioned: something
rigid, rusting and clanking with padlocks. Where has that image come
from? Reliable historical evidence is scarce. Many museums display
a metal construction of dubious origins and even more questionable
efficiency. Historically the aim seems to have been to ensure that
a woman would not become pregnant during her husband's absence, thereby
safeguarding the line of succession. Alternatively it was to preserve
a daughter's virginity to protect her marriage prospects.
For this purpose the "T" shape (a lockable waist belt fixed
to a front to back crotch strap) would frustrate attempted copulation
rather than prevent it! It would leave masturbation or sodomy as the
But, to totally prevent sexual enjoyment or arousal in any form is
a very different ball game ... particularly when the subject is male!
Anyone who has experimented with any form of cock bondage has encountered
the problems of variability. Something which is comfortably restricting
can suddenly become dangerously tight. The physical and social problems
are numerous. Cock locks, sheaths, solid jocks and the like all have
their advantages and limitations. Add to this the wide range of personal
preferences for visual and dramatic effects and the range of possibilities
becomes mind boggling.
A CLOSER LOOK (January l983)
Since I started writing the above notes a couple of years ago, there's
been a lot of sweat, tears and occasional blood spilt in the cause
of experimenting with different concepts of the chastity belt. The
FETTERS workshop is littered with aborted contraptions. Yet we know
that around the world there are men and women who are regularly locked
into solid realisations of their fantasy: enforced chastity! For many
people the chastity belt is the ultimate symbol of a partner's dominance
or surrender. Taking any fantasy into reality can be a risky business.
The most potent jerk-off routines, however detailed, usually have
vague areas. To achieve the reality it is usually necessary to bring
the dream into sharper focus.
The hard edges of reality could make most of our torture / punishment
/ imprisonment fantasies intolerable. Such a fantasy might be destroyed
for all time if the actuality turned the slightest bit sour. FETTERS
customers soon discover that the solid steel reality of manacles,
or the unyielding canvas and leather straps of a straitjacket are
a very different ballgame to their erotic daydreams. However, most
of them can learn to live happily with the reality after making the
necessary mental readjustments. My point is that facing up to these
practical realities should begin in the planning stages when you are
going to make or order equipment.
Bringing a fantasy into reality can be as complicated as writing a
scenario for a movie. The general sweep of the action can be decided
easily, and the dramatic or visual style is probably already clearly
defined, but before it becomes reality, the practical details have
to be brought into focus one by one. These cannot be conveniently
A chastity belt Check List is often the best way to make sure no essential
element gets left out of the scene. Writing this list shouldn't be
a chore. Whether it's done in partnership or in secret, checking over
the specifics can give hours of stimulating speculation. Not only
worth the effort; a whole lot of fun!
A check list might start with one of two questions:
What does it look like? or - what is it supposed to prevent?
Get that into focus for a start. (How practical is the fantasy of
being welded permanently into a cast iron jock strap if, in reality,
you can't even sit down without getting a hernia.)
The visual image:
This may be one of the main turn-ons. Should it involve something
metal and vaguely medieval; or be like a Victorian surgical corset,
all horsehide and rivets; or in shining modern hi-tech stainless steel?
Any device intended for actual use for even relatively short periods
of time, must be used with consideration of the wearer's physical
The choice of material, although perhaps an essential part of the
desired dramatic effect, must be weighed against all practical considerations.
If abrasions are allowed to develop, pleasure can be denied to all
concerned for a matter of weeks.
When you have decided exactly what the device is supposed to do or
to prevent, you should perhaps experiment with improvised versions
before settling on a particular design. This way you can discover
what does or doesn't work for you.
The degree of escape-proofing is another reality which has to be faced.
A totally indestructible impregnable device is virtually impossible
in this day and age. Given access to a hacksaw, a pair of bolt cutters
or a friendly locksmith, no thoroughly determined victim need remain
Exactly how secure need the device you have in mind be?. Threat alone
is often enough to keep a victim wearing even the most uncomfortable
device. Additional restraints such as mitts and handcuffs can sometimes
reduce the number of locks needed. Of course if the hands are free
and still the device can't be removed without destroying it, the scene
Face the facts, leather straps can be cut; inexpensive locks can be
picked. Metal reinforced leather and top quality padlocks will add
considerably to the cost.
Locks at every fixing point may make opening and closing a device
a very complicated process. This can be a potent part of your scene
... or a downright irritation. The rules of the game are something
that only you can decide. (I deliberately refer to all S/M activity
in terms of a game. Although it can be as tough, demanding and painful
as ice hockey, football or boxing, if it ceases to be a game, the
dangers are legion!).
However high or low security factors are on your list, the situation
should never arise that a belt is causing so much pain or physical
damage that the wearer must remove it at any price!.
Toilet functions and hygiene:
The most practical reality is the time factor when choosing a device,
because toilet functions have to be considered if it's to be worn
for periods of over five hours; particularly if the key holder is
not immediately available.
With the traditional 'T' shaped design both toilet functions are possible,
though really quite messy. A totally efficient design, particularly
if a butt plug is used, can make such body functions impossible.
For periods of over five hours without relief, people with experience
of bondage for unspecified periods can usually devise their own solutions.
Control through diet, enemas or day/night urinal bags allow most situations
to be made possible. Having considered the points raised so far you
should by now have a clearer idea which device will allow which sort
(For expanded Check List ideas see the 'Check List' workshop notes
on the main Chastity Index)
GETTING BACK TO
"THE GAMES PEOPLE PLAY":
Everything in erotic bondage is a matter of degree.
Denying a partner access to his/her own body for a day is very different
from the victim spending a night locked into the same device! Believe
Wearing a "handicap" in the privacy of the home is very
different from being escorted around a public place with it locked
on. Being taken around with the device hidden beneath clothes is totally
unlike being at a social event with all the locks exposed to view.
All a matter of degree.
Forcing someone to go off to their place of employment unable to take
a piss can give both "players" a day of intense tension,
but for two people to mutually agree to spend their time apart both
locked into devices with keys held by their partners is something
The range of different designs available in many leather stores or
mail-order catalogues is considerable, but in most instances the degree
of efficiency will depend upon a good fit. Even most off-the-peg cock
and ball toys either fit or they don't; there are no half measures.
Some people can't get them on while others find that they fall off.
Adjustability in a lockable chastity device is usually quite limited.
Accurate measurements are particularly important if ordering by mail.
Safety factors deserve more space than I'm prepared to give them here.
Because so much in S/M is a matter of personal taste (and degree)
it should be enough to say "Take care"! Most male chastity
devices need to fit tightly around the genitals, and when locked on
the cock and balls may be out of view. Even temporary interruption
of blood circulation is potentially dangerous - and the danger signals
are usually seen rather than felt. You can minimise this danger with
cautious and concerned experimentation. Monitoring the effect of what's
going on inside a metal jock-box or behind a laced up, strapped down,
butt plugged horsehide crotch harness is up to the gamesman.
The safety of all S/M equipment is, generally speaking, in the hands
of the users rather than those of the designer / maker / supplier.
The original Information Sheet then continued with details of various
designs for male chastity devices developed by 'Fetters' twenty-five
years ago. These and many variations are still in production.
STOCK LINES AND SPECIAL DESIGNS:
During the past few years many FETTERS customers have come to us with
very specific ideas and we've been able to carry many of them out
successfully. As a result of this experience we have been able to
identify the more popular and efficient types of chastity devices.
END Chastity Belt Information Sheet
see CHASTITY BELTS INDEX
For related information see GENITAL BONDAGE Info
3 = DILDOS/BUTT
The use of symbolic and artificial penises dates back at least to
the Ancient Greeks, but modern technology has made a greater variety
more readily available and safer to use. In Britain most are made
from a malleable oil-based plastic with a remarkably flesh-like texture.
In the USA a more rigid polyurethane is generally used.
In bondage the addition of a plug' of any kind can intensify a situation
and contribute to the sense of vulnerability and domination. For many
people they are an essential part of any Chastity Device.
LEGAL & MORAL ISSUES:
The current legal situation regarding the sale and use of such items
seems to be deliberately confused. A wide variety of dildos and plugs
are openly offered for sale in the Popular Press, and all are advertised
under the waiver "Sold as novelties only - not for actual use".
Limitations on the posting and import/export of such goods are confusing
(to say the least). So far we have been unable to find any solid evidence
of statutes controlling the sale or shipment of such goods.
We would prefer that the use or non-use of such implements remain
a matter of adult, well-informed personal choice rather than of government
legislation - - but we do strongly advise that any such use is undertaken
with full awareness of the physical and hygienic dangers involved
- and only with the full consent of both people involved.
Any plug' inserted into any human bodily orifice must be clean, smooth
and firmly anchored to something with which it can be pulled out again.
A collar or plate, firmly attached to a flexible central core, is
Most good items manufactured for penetration have a chain core which
prevents pieces breaking off. Any dildo with a more rigid core can
be extremely dangerous as this could break through it's soft casing
and cause irreparable damage to delicate internal human tissue.
Totally solid items of reasonable proportions and perfectly smooth,
non-toxic finish may be used without danger if there is no violent
movement of either the implement or the body while it is inside. Again
this is a matter of individual capacity and pain threshold.
HYGIENE & MAINTENANCE.
Careful washing after use is essential. This involves more than wiping.
Warm soapy water with added antiseptic fluid is preferable - followed
by careful rinsing in clean warm water - followed by a further soak
in antiseptic for at least half an hour - then rinsing and drying.
Store in a clean plastic bag, and preferably re-soak in antiseptic
(and rinse) immediately before use. This may sound extreme, but the
middle of a hot sexual Scene is not the time to check if the equipment
is clean and safe to use.
Restricting the use of any one plug to one person is the simplest
way of avoiding transfer of germs.
Signs of wear such as a pitted surface or splits on the coating are
danger signals. Once the surface is broken, the plastic can easily
tear and separate, therefore these items should be destroyed immediately.
Lubricant from a dispenser or tube is much safer than from a canister
or jar. Age and storage conditions can cause lubricant to deteriorate
- which may then become a health hazard.
SIZE AND SHAPE.
In recent specialised catalogues the range has expanded beyond the
natural and practical penis substitutes with lengths of six to eight
inches (153/205mm) and circumferences of 4.25 to 6.25 inches (120/157mm).
The variety of shapes and textures now includes full fists, open hands
and 'monster' proportions. Although offered for sale as "Novelties
- not for actual use, one can only assume that somewhere there are
people who use, or attempt to use phallic substitutes 18 inches long
and ten or more inches in circumference.
Everything is a matter of degree; personal preference, medical considerations
and plain common sense should provide each individual with their own
guidelines. As with the real thing, sensitive manipulation of a small
and flexible intrusion can be more erotically stimulating than sheer
size and weight.
Many women and men find these 'toys' stimulating when inserted into
the anus or vagina. Battery operated with rigid or flexible casing,
some even have varying speeds of vibration. Unfortunately all are
liable to malfunction, and none seem to have any external attachment
point - which is risky. Available from must 'Sex Shops' and some mail-order
Various gimmicks intended to increase the size of any orifice are
available. A medical 'spreader' is a form of metal reverse pliers.
In experienced hands these can be quite safe, but indiscriminate use
cane be painful and dangerous. Inflatable 'toys' are also made in
different shapes and sizes.
To prevent a plug from entering deeper or being taken out, a simple
harness is often used. This may or may not be lockable. A few are
illustrated over leaf, but the more complicated versions are discussed
in the Chastity Belt section of the catalogue and in the Chastity
Belts INFO Sheet.
BUTT PLUG SLIDER:
This useful addition to a harness not only keeps plug firmly in place,
but it has a 'split-ring to which plugs can be attached.
A very high quality chrome plated solid steel with screw-on end loops
are available to special order. 4 inches long by 3.75 circ. to 6 inches
long by 4.75 circ. (weighing from 11 to 29 ounces!).
A popular stimulator for men or women. Plastic or rubber balls threaded
on string or leather thong. Not easy to keep clean, so advisable to
limit use to one person only.
END 3-DILDOS AND PLUGS
4 = HOSPITAL RESTRAINTS
This is an area of fantasy enactment which quite a few people find
appealing. The degree to which it can be put into practice mainly
depends on convincing role-playing and availability of authentic-looking
equipment. As far as we can discover, there are only two major suppliers
of actual hospital 'restraints' in the USA and none in Britain. Of
course, many useful materials related to 'medical' needs are available
if you know where to look - and have the nerve to go in and ask for
Reproduced here are the actual 'restraint' sections of the HUMANE
RESTRAINT and POSEY INC. catalogues. We would like to expand this
list of sources and useful items which you have experienced or heard
Since around the 1920s actual restraint of hospital patients has been
very much frowned upon - but more recently, the use of sedatives to
make patients controllable and suppress out- ward signs of hysteria
have also been criticised. The French, in particular, have returned
to using the strait-jacket or "camisole" to allow certain
categories of patient to work off surplus energy or anger without
harm to themselves or others.
These are dealt with in greater detail in our "Notes on Strait
jackets" (Info Sheet 6). For people who want authenticity the
HUMANE RESTRAINT and POSEY jackets are the ones sold to hundreds of
hospitals and sanatoria in the USA. Sizes are generally large, and
only if expertly applied are they totally escape-proof.
BED & TABLE RESTRAINTS:
The Humane Restraint leather restraints are of excellent quality material
and finish (which is reflected in the prices). The various kinds of
locks are of interest. The variety of uses they can be put to depends
entirely on the imagination of the user.
Lightweight webbing straps with Velcro closings have a variety of
uses and can be tamper-proof if strategically placed. Easy knots:
The POSEY catalogue illustrates a range of easy knots which members
of the 'nursing' profession are expected to know.
Special bed blankets, such as the SHERWOOD heavy canvas and the POSEY
lightweight "Net" are combined restraints and covers which
some people (having discovered them in Government Surplus stores)
find useful in imaginative domestic Games.
SPLINTS & "SURGICAL BONDAGE":
This is an area where personal preference and fantasy may really run
riot. Anyone who has been subjected to the rigorous efficiency of
a surgical collar or corset may not be 'turned on' by this kind of
authentic equipment - but there are many people who are. As it is
very expensive and often custom-made, it is not easily available.
However, there are sources of second-hand supplies. In these places
other authentic pieces like hospital trolleys, dentists chairs may
also be found - if you have the nerve to go ask. Also, First Aid and
Safety supplies outlets now offer a range of inflatable splints which
are highly efficient for preventing bending of elbows / wrists / knees
without any real discomfort. This make them ideal (and safe) for extended
periods of immobilisation.
This is an area for the "Do It Yourself" enthusiast. Know-how
and experience are only gained from practical experience. The human
body is not as easy to wrap as an inanimate parcel. Naturally, care
must be taken not to interrupt blood circulation. It should also be
remembered that the bandaged area does soon swell slightly, increasing
the tightness of the wrapping. Any bandaging should be re-checked
after about thirty minutes.
Types and widths of bandage give many different opportunities. Elastic
bandage (even soft rubber strips) can be used. It's mainly a matter
of visual effect and personal taste. All types of soft wrapping can
be efficient if properly applied. The time it takes to release a mummification
is a consideration if an emergency develops. A pair of blunt-ended
scissors is a wise investment.
For really extreme (and lengthy) Scenes this has been used to great
psychological and physical effect. Know-how about using it should
be sought in advance - and, like many other aspects of 'Bondage',
an experiment to discover how it feels before subjecting someone else
to it, is advisable. Knowing how to cut it off without causing damage
is also essential before it has been put on! (add epoxy resin?)
So far we have not been able to get an illustrated catalogue of surgical
supplies which picture the existing range of clamps for penis, mouth.
etc. They certainly exist, and have been used in erotic or at least
provocative 'scenes' by people who have access to them through their
The standard patterns of jackets as made by FETTERS incorporate the
best design features of the ones in the two hospital catalogues.
Our 'Clinical' jacket is of 15oz natural (off-white) cotton duck with
either leather or webbing straps. Laundering is easier if webbing
straps are used.
Any number of extensions can make a strait-jacket match the visual
image of a fantasy. Extra straps, padding, heavily overlapped seams,
leather reinforcement can create the effect of high tech or Victorian
5 = GENITAL BONDAGE
This area of "restraint" is so essentially a matter not
only of individual choice but perfect fit - it is often better left
to the ingenuity of the do-it-yourself enthusiast to make up equipment
- if only in prototype. The wide range of "Toys" available
from shops and by mail-order either fit or they don't. Adjustability
is not a feature of most items.
Genital Bondage falls into three basic categories: Self-stimulation,
prevention of masturbation and enforced chastity. Many aspects of
these three are better covered in the NOTES ON CHASTITY BELTS. This
sheet aims to focus on different ways of actually wrapping or restraining
the male sexual organ as an erotic experience.
The usual note about safe and sane 'bondage' applies even more seriously
to genital bondage. Interrupted blood circulation can very quickly
cause serious permanent damage. Even temporary, superficial skin abrasion
on the sexual organs can lead to loss of pleasure if nothing more,
and inhibit activities for a considerable time. Particularly when
genitals are covered while in 'bondage', careful monitoring is essential.
The mere presence of a single band around the base of cock and behind
the scrotum can act as a powerful erotic stimulus. To many men it
is part of everyday life. A cockring can be worn continuously without
causing any serious damage or discomfort if not too tight. Choice
of material, degree of weight or tightness is usually a matter of
choice - or an act of submission. Many more complicated pieces of
genital bondage equipment such as sheaths and 'Gates of Hell' are
usually anchored onto a C.R. Therefore two different types of ring
should be considered first.
A simple ring of metal, rubber, leather or chain is an inexpensive
and effective stimulator. Even the act of getting a cockring into
position behind the scrotum can be a stimulus in its own right - making
it a pleasurable or painful undertaking. Whether the testicles are
put through the ring before the penis or vice versa depends on personal
preference and practicality. The minimum size of a solid ring is determined
by the possibility of passing one testicle through. First-time users
may find the process difficult, but it is safer to start with a ring
too large rather than too small. What is enjoyably snug one minute
can become excruciatingly (and dangerously) tight seconds later. Veins
are very close to the surface and it's easy to interrupt the blood-flow.
Even so, the C.R. is a popular and widely used device.
These allow for a tighter circle when in position because they can
be smaller than the diameter of one testicle. Again, tightness for
any length of time is a matter of personal capacity. Adjustment may
take several forms depending on the material.
Four very simple and inexpensive alternatives are:
Short chain, lightweight and rust resistant, perhaps closed with a
miniature padlock allows for a snug fit and a little extra consciousness
"Jubilee Clip" from an ordinary hardware store is an adjustable
circle of metal strip which can be screwed smaller with a screwdriver.
Psychologically very exciting. This would be an ideal device if it
wasn't so easy for the screwdriver to slip as it's being tightened/untightened.
Also, raw edges of the metal have to be smoothed before use. A very
short screwdriver is advisable.
Disposable plastic 'ties' sold in garden supply shops have a loop
in one end and when the other end is threaded through and tightened
it will not loosen again - and must be cut off. The "Flexicuff"
used by several Police Forces are Big Brothers to this versatile little
item. A packet of them in various sizes is a useful addition to any
Leather Thong or boot lace has a special appeal for people 'into'
leather. Either knotted or plaited around it has a very different
feel to metal or rubber. If you were a Boy Scout or Girl Guide you
already know the complexities of a 'Turks Head' knot. Fun to put on,
and complicated to tighten - but a unique device. Pubic hair may create
problems - but then again, it may not.
When closed these must be small enough to prevent one testicle being
pushed through. Several styles are illustrated. If a screw-lock is
used, pinching must be avoided when being closed. If locked with a
padlock, general movement may cause pinching due to the looseness
of the padlock hasp. A piece of adhesive tape can eliminate this.
A nut-and-bolt is an inexpensive alternative, but is only 'locked'
if it's a "tamper-proof" bolt-head or other more extreme
measures are used.
Ordinary padlock with a hasp approximately 2.75 inches wide will usually
lock-around as a heavyweight cockring. Positioned under the scrotum
this is a 'Heavy Trip' particularly when worn under street clothes
in public places. Care should be taken to monitor the effect for short
periods before the wearer is left alone without access to the key.
The same idea is safer if a smaller size padlock is used, locked around
the top of the ball-sack only.
Bull-Rings are special hinged rings and make an interesting alternative.
Designed for piercing through the nostrils of a heavy animal to attach
a lead-chain, they can be closed around the cock-and-balls. A small
screw is then tightened and its head broken off. They're still removable
because the broken screw reveals a screw-slot - but the effect is
good. Unfortunately they come in only relatively large sizes, so can
usually be slipped off. Two other problems are 1) The sharp edge designed
for piercing is dangerously sharp (and no-one should be tempted to
try piercing with it!)... and 2) The hinge when open reveals two sharp
corners which can cut as the ring is closed. Bull-rings are a tempting
idea but should only be used with caution.
ADD MORE ....................
There are so many alternative forms of Genital Bondage 'Toys' manufactured
in leather, rubber or neoprene. The effects of different configurations
these produce can also be achieved with a piece of leather thong or
soft cord, so they can be tried-out before a manufactured item is
The original Information Sheet went on to describe various configurations
- but so many manufacturers now have well illustrated web site, there
is no point in duplicating effort.
Usually linked by short leather straps, any number of configurations
"Arab Strap": Cockring with a second smaller ring around
the base of the penis only is used traditionally as an aid to sustaining
an erection. Whether the second ring is linked to the C.R. by one
strap or two it is a popular piece of basic equipment. If the lower
sides of the two rings are linked by a short strap or chain tightly
between the testicles it not only becomes a "Ball Separator"
but can be impossible to slip out of.
"Gates of Hell": Traditionally implies a Cockring joined
to three / six smaller rings along the penis. The diameter of these
rings depends on whether the aim is to sustain an erection or prevent
"Stallion Guard": The real thing is designed to prevent
a stud horse servicing a mare. A Gates of Hell can serve the same
purpose - particularly if the rings are linked by other straps along
the length of the penis. If the last ring is smaller than the others
this makes full erection painful, if not impossible. Only when the
first ring is linked to the C.R. under the balls is this device fully
effective and un-removable without access to the key.
Leather strap versions of the above joined by rivets and either buckles
or "Locking Posts" make attractive alternatives to metal.
Used to encase, restrict, hold up or down - the main problem is in
the rapid changes in sizes during any Scene. Whether lockable or strapable
a sheath should be as soft as possible to be really effective. Open
ended or closed they can be the basis of many different games and
Small rings attached to the ends of sheaths can be very useful, but
if the sheath is then constricted inside other clothes rings and miniature
buckles can cause havoc.
Internal prickers and external studs are a matter of personal choice
(for either the wearer or buyer). These can add considerably to the
physical and visual drama of the situation. Those sheaths which are
supposed to encase both cock and balls are particularly difficult
to get a snug fit.
Rigid sheaths or even bent sheaths can have their places in the wide
variety of alternatives.
If made of metal, these should not be sharp enough to draw blood.
If used in penis sheath or ball toys, remember that the skin is very
thin. Skin damage is caused quickly and takes a long time to heal.
The alternative is a rubber pad with nodules of rubber which when
pressed onto a sensitive area can feel like metal pins. The rounded
ends of rivets assembled on a leather pad can also have their uses.
Sometimes referred to as 'Trainers', it does seem that the ball-sack
does grow or stretch gradually as these devices are used. Attachments
for weights, lead chains, etc. are a matter of personal choice and
needs. To circle the top of the sack with a strap is less dangerous
than around the cockring line. This is how many FETTERS Chastity Devices
The Parachute Harness is a particularly popular toy (with or without
internal prickers) as an anchor for weights.
Several popular genital toys divide the ball sack. These can be used
as an alternative to, or in conjunction with, Ball Stretchers.
As with sheaths, these either fit or they don't. Well tailored they
can have an interesting visual effect - and under wrapping of cord
or thong can act as a protector to sensitive skin.
STOMACH PLATES, TRIANGLES AND "MEAT TENDERISERS":
A range of plates through which the cock, or cock and balls can be
threaded and anchored. Fixed at the waist and perhaps under the crotch
to back of waist these can be the basis of many alternative designs.
If large and heavy with studs or cones they are a symbolic threat
when worn by a sexual partner.
A stomach plate when very small, and with an attached cover, becomes
an efficient device known as the "Rat Trap" but it should
perhaps be called the "Clam Shell" because once cock and
balls are sandwiched inside, there's no way they'll come out without
access to the key.
The strap or chain used to fix any stomach plate into position must
circle the waist above the hip bones if it's meant not to be slid
off. The links from the plate to the waist need not be particularly
tight if a ball-sack strap is incorporated because this will prevent
COVERS AND CAGES:
A variety of differently shaped and sized covers can be used to encase
the genitals. They usually hinge from the base upwards unless a flattening
effect is desired. An interesting alternative to solid metal or leather
covers can be cages made from strips of leather, metal strap or wire.
These can have extraordinary visual impact as well as physical results.
CONDOMS, LATEX COVERS AND SHEATHS:
A general range of 'novelty' condoms can be incorporated to suit personal
tastes. Heavier black 'rubbers' are made but are often difficult to
Several thin latex sheaths and combined sheath/ball sacks are advertised.
With thicker latex, if the size is right, the effect is excellent.
Particularly if a ball-bag is included they can be quite a performance
to get into - and it's not something somebody else can do for you
- without a struggle!
Drainage tubes are built into some models on the market and can be
A Ball Balloon is a lockable latex sphere approximately three inches
in diameter when not stretched. Getting one into place and everything
crushed into it can be quite an undertaking - often requiring tying
a string around the testicles to stop them disappearing during the
process. Talc or lubricant sometimes helps - pubic hair is usually
'Genital Bondage' involving rings pierced through the skin is a whole
different subject already well covered in the specialist catalogues
for piercing "jewellery".
Extreme examples of heavier metalwork being pierced into the genital
area are not to everybody's taste - but are extremely effective
Expand notes on (and illustrate) HAVING, DEE RINGS OR VELCRO for strap
fastening, ELECTRONIC DETERRANTS OR ALARM SYSTEMS
HEAVY RUBBER &
In this range from our Amsterdam supplier of rubber, various penile
straps and latex pants are illustrated in the main catalogue. The
latex Bondage Balloon (HR48 in Price List) still defies illustration.
You have to try cramming everything into a three inch diameter circular
bag through a two inch hole and tighten the strap to feel the effect.
What's more it's virtually impossible for somebody to do it for you
- you have to do it for yourself.
The latex sheaths (with or without drainage tubes) are equally difficult
to get on first time - but you soon discover the knack.
6 = STRAIT JACKETS
(First published I978) (revised into a chapter in the book "So I Like To Get Tied-up
... So What!!?")
The image of a "strait-jacket" seems to hold a fascination
for a wide variety of people. Most Escape Artists consider it to be
a sure-fire crowd puller. Since HARRY HOUDINI first introduced the
stunt (or at least so he claims) it has proved to be popular with
a lot of people in a lot of places. Where does this fascination lie?
The very existence of a "Regulation" or officially approved
strait-jacket should, surely, make most people cringe. Why doesn't
the suggestion that such a piece of equipment might have been used
in real-life situations make the whole idea repugnant? Why do crowds
regularly gather to see someone strapped into such a barbaric device?
I won't attempt to analyse the reasons - the fact is indisputable:
vast numbers of people enjoy seeing such a happening. Just what percentage
of the crowd speculates on what it might be like to have it done to
them / do it to somebody else / have a shot at escaping .... who knows?
The fact remains that being 'interested' in strait-jackets isn't all
that unusual. What is a strait-jacket? Traditionally it's a reasonably
tough fabric garment designed to prevent violent mentally disturbed
patients and prisoners from causing harm to themselves and other people.
Strait-jackets or strait waistcoats can be anything from a simple
smock with closed sleeve ends and tie tapes, to deliberately intimidating
constructions of sailcloth, leather straps and metal hardware. The
term "Regulation" usually suggests that it is an approved
pattern, as used in a particular Institution or by a particular prison
authority. In Britain the Home Office, which has responsibility for
most Police and Prison furnishing, has at various times in the past
approved specifications for several pieces of restraining clothing
(although all information on the garments is "strictly classified").
Inevitably, the existence of such equipment has led to it being used
as punishment as well as a last resort. In places where such an item
would find very little actual use, to have some form of restrainer
hanging around serves as a useful threat, to keep would-be troublesome
patients in line. Historical records show that many jackets were purposely
designed to look tough; extra bands of canvas and leather to suggest
additional strength and durability. In reality these may not have
been as efficient as a well constructed garment made from light weight
pliable rip-proof canvas. Not only more comfortable, these lightweight
jackets can be infinitely more confining if correctly cut and sewn
- and efficiently applied.
Psychological impact: Seeing someone restrained by, strapping someone
into, or being strapped into - is what we are dealing with here. Whether
as a challenge or punishment, here is a situation in which energy
and aggression can be worked off harmlessly. Although strait-jackets
are seldom used now in most European countries - it is still recognised
in some circles that the hugging tightness of a well-applied strait-jacket
has a calming effect on some patients once they have exhausted all
attempts to free themselves.
To escape from a strait-jacket can be an exhilarating experience for
an escaper and anyone watching . Many spectators when watching an
Escape Artist probably feel the urge to help strap the would-be escaper.
What number of them would, secretly, like to "have a go"
at struggling free?
Escaping from....... :
Techniques must necessarily vary with the design of jacket and manner
in which it is
applied. In every instance the main aim should be to gain 'slack'
when the garment is
strapped on. Every inch counts, particularly in the tightness of the
arm straps. Factors
(A) whether straps or tie tapes are used.
(B) if canvas is supple enough to use fingers through it.
(C) if it is possible to work the arms upwards or downwards.
(D) if armholes are wide enough to work arms out of sleeve by twisting
Quick release .......
1. Gain as much slack as possible on arm straps by expanding chest
and faking tightness by bracing elbows against sides as jacket is
2. When ready to escape relax all muscles, hunch shoulders forward
to bring all available slack to front. Then working systematically,
ease buckle of arm-strap upwards until arms can be pulled free over
head - or downwards to bring arms under seat
3 Work at straps or ties with fingers through canvas, or with teeth.
This routine is very much a matter of practice. To improve chances
of escape by this method, when jacket is applied the right arm should
be crossed over the left (unless you're left-handed), placing right
hand on left bleep (that is, if you are allowed to 'get away with
it') otherwise under left elbow. It is best to avoid allowing arms
to be 'folded'. When trying to work both arms upwards and over the
head, brace the elbow against a wall or door-handle. Or kneel down
on one knee, using the other as a Pushing Post. The same effect can
be accomplished by lying face down on the floor and rolling alternately
from one elbow to the other, forcing the elbows closer together to
increase slack in mitt straps. The easiest way to escape from a strait-jacket
is to try and be sure that it is only ever strapped on by someone
who has never done it before.
To prevent escape ...
Having studied and experimented with ways to escape from a strait-jacket
it becomes more easy to devise ways to make escape more difficult.
Jackets used by Escape Artists usually have languish wide sleeves,
loose neck-bands and
no strap between the legs. (Crotch strap).
A jacket with short, tight sleeves, snug under the armpits presents
a much more exacting
challenge. A close high collar also adds to the general "cling"
- and straps connecting
sleeves should be short with holes right up to the end .... and be
very strong. The strain in
all directions on a well applied jacket can be intense, so all seams
should be double sewn.
Additional defences: A crotch strap to prevent the body of the jacket
being dragged over the head. Arm straps anchored through one of the
back straps to stop arms being worked up or down the body (Jackets
with a pair of loops from armpit to hem of the jacket through which
sleeves can be passed, effectively prevent arms travelling.). Mitts
of heavy material or leather to prevent tampering with buckles through
sleeves will defeat many would-be Escape Artists. A small strap added
around each wrist before the arms are crossed makes 'slipping' the
jacket virtually impossible. Extra reinforcement of seams, elbows
and neck will stop any attempts to wear a way out of an otherwise
escape-proof jacket - but most important of all is to eliminate 'slack'.
Getting the jacket on: Even with a willing victim, applying a jacket
single-handed needs practice. A particular awareness of the various
tricks for gaining slack is essential. One way to eliminate stolen
slack is, after threading the arm-strap as far as possible, to then
stand to one side and brace your body against that of the victim.
Using one hand to clamp prisoners elbows together, the back-strap
can then be wrenched tighter at the same moment.
Two people applying a jacket can eliminate slack much more easily.
As one pulls the arm-strap tight behind, the other can press the victims
elbows together at the front. It is amazing how much further arms
will reach across the chest with a little persuasion. Two people can
also manage to 'fold' a victims arms even against quite violent opposition.
The situation of an "unwilling victim" being forced into
a strait-jacket is a complicated and potentially dangerous undertaking.
As a test of ingenuity and stamina it can be fun. In a one-to-one
situation it is virtually impossible unless the pair are very unequally
matched. With two against one, if a 'routine' has been worked out
in advance, it is possible to subdue a victim even if he is prepared
to put up a healthy struggle. In any event it's certainly fun to try.
Finally, extra defences against a would-be Escapee from any form of
canvas restrainer include strapping feet together - threading a strong
leather strap or 'pinion strap' set between elbows at the back - or
lacing the hapless (helpless) bundle to a bed or short ladder (which
must be safely anchored or laid on floor). Imagination, ingenuity
and the element of surprise count for much in the field of escapes
and the sort of challenges we have been discussing.
An interesting alternative to the crossed-arm strait-jacket is a lightweight
canvas tube reinforced with webbing straps. This 'smock' is more easy
to put on and its image has less direct 'strait-
jacket' connotations. Arms are not anchored inside this simple shoulder
covering, but makes them unable to inflict damage on the wearer or
others, and provides
effective control for attendants.
Putting the smock onto a patient is also much simpler than a traditional
strait-jacket. The tube can be slipped over the head with straps pre-threaded.
Even the crotch strap at the front is simply hooked to it's counterpart
inback and strap can be pulled tighter with one hand. The patients'
arms can be left loose inside the smock or, if required, the wrists
can be attached to hem of smock at thigh level with separate straps.
Anchor points for bed-straps can also be added for total immobilisation.
7 = BAGS & SACKS
Very few people can accurately anticipate their reaction to being
put inside a dark restrictive 'soft space'. Whether voluntarily or
as punishment, the experience is certainly something which changes
and develops with time, more than most forms of restraint.
The initial impact is something the mind needs time to adjust to.
For some people the first effect is overwhelming but then the mind
and body quite soon accept the circumstances. Other people who anticipate
little threat at being put into a bag may, after a very short time,
develop an unexpected sense of helplessness or panic. Even after the
first experience, changed circumstances outside the sack can produce
dramatically different and unpredictable reactions.
In any event, the effect is usually progressive. So although very
few people can accurately predict their reactions, the basic situation
is attractive to many and discovering your own or someone else's level
of tolerance in this field can be exhilarating.
Systematic experiments in the total reduction of sensory awareness
(sound, sight, touch ) have bee conducted in universities and other
establishments around the world. A variety of effects have been discovered
and identified, and the associated techniques are now being applied
in both space travel and 'brain washing'.
However, in the field of Erotic Bondage the back-to-the-womb experience
can be, for many people, delightfully relaxing. A lot of FETTERS customers
are able to 'switch off' by spending restful nights inside a SLEEPSACK.
Even people who have to put themselves into the sack can stay put
after the first excitement has worn off.
Whether you find that the experience intensifies with time or subsides
into a relaxed and luxurious lack of responsibility - you won't know
until you've tried it As long as no harsh pressure points threaten
to interrupt circulation or cause chafing, different types of bag
can be endured/enjoyed for hours. even when quite tightly plaid. With
suitable drainage the period can he lengthened even further.
The full variety of different games people play is too broad to review
here. Visual imagery, texture contact. dramatic situation, length
of time, with or without hoods ..... The best advise to follow your
own likes don't over complicate any situation too early in the game
and constantly observe safety precautions, particularly if the 'victim'
is not clearly visible.
When you've read his leaflet and done some particular experimenting,
your suggestions as to what should be added to these notes (or anything
you may disagree with) would be welcomed. Jim Stewart October ' 85.
THE POSSIBILITIES ARE LIMITLESS
In terms of restraint / confinement / endurance, 'The Bag' is a general
area which offers a whole range of different alternatives.
For identification purposes, there are three main subdivisions:
1. Basic SACK
If large enough to take a whole human body with limbs fully extended,
even with the head inside the sack most people can learn to deal with
the situation at least for a short period. But the psychological effect,
being accumulative, needs to be explored. Not knowing what is going
on outside or hearing sounds rich may or may not be interpreted correctly
is, in itself, powerfully effective.
A sack which does not allow room for full extension of the limbs is
very much more potent. Even a slight reduction of mobility, without
any other restrictions, can very quickly have a telling effect on
both mind and body. Limbs soon react painfully and the mind acknowledges
not only the discomfort but the vulnerability much sooner. Adjusting
to the limited (though perfectly adequate) supply of air demands quite
strenuous mental exercise. If the internal size of the bag is gradually
reduced, the situation can soon become intensely oppressive.
The head outside a sack which is closed around the neck can perhaps
intensify the feeling of helplessness. The neck cord need not be tight
if wrists are secured inside the bag.
Suspension: If the sack is hung, putting body weight onto the
'walls' of the confined area, the physical experience is altered
completely, and can quickly become barely tolerable.
N.B. The strength and durability of any sack used for suspension must
be equal to the task.
2. A BODYBAG
Similar in proportion to a conventional sleeping bag, this can also
render the person inside totally helpless without any additional
applied. Many games have evolved from normal camping expeditions.
Tough Government Surplus bags can form the basis of a very useful
piece of equipment. 'D' rings added to serve as anchor points (or
to prevent external straps from being worked free) can make an ordinary
bag very versatile.
Whether the head is inside or out, such a gag can keep someone quite
comfortably but totally confined for quite long periods. If the head
is aside, a 'snorkel breathing pipe can be used to ensure an adequate
supply of air (but constant monitoring is advisable). Bags made from
waterproof or padded fabric can intensify the experience in terms
of generated heat. Heavy cloths or additional restraints worn before
the 'victim' is put into the bag can extend the parameters of the
Being stood up or suspended within such a bag can completely change
the tensions, but care must be taken. The possible danger of lifting
or moving around the dead-weight of someone who is totally helpless
perhaps needs a separate 'worksheet'.
3. SLEEP SACK
This is a term used in the FETTERS catalogue to describe a more form
fitting type of full-length bodybag. A soft and malleable covering
can be used to subject a body to varying intensities of confinement
through the use of added lacing or straps. Construction details depend
entirely on the likes and dislikes of the users. As these are usually
made to order, variations such as materials used, access points, anchoring
points, strap or laced tightening possibilities are all optional.
The main thing is that the different concepts; a form fitting bag,
a rectangular flat bag or kit-bag shaped sack with round bottom and
straight walls cover most eventualities in the subject under review
In each of the three main 'bag' categories, standard patterns have
been reached after much trial and error and customer feedback. These
designs combine the most popular features and help reduce the number
of choices left to someone investing for the first time in a custom
made bag but, of course, specific features can be omitted or added.
Firstly, most designs can be made entirely from canvas with or without
reinforcement panels and bands, from canvas with leather reinforcement
or totally in leather. As you can imagine, the durability and erotic
effect of each type of fabric makes them all very different, but does
not change the basic structure.
OTHER GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Canvas: This is a 15 ounce cotton duck available in off-white, brown
Leather: Heavy motorcycle clothing weight leather is used, usually
black, but a pale natural colour is an attractive alternative for
people who like, for example, the look of well lived-in Cowboy Chaps.
The leather finish depends on current availability. Preferably, a
not too shiny finish is chosen unless something otherwise is specifically
Hardware: Large 'D' rings are always welded closed but those used
for the lacing cord across the front are not always so (depending
upon availability) but, because stress on these should only be moderate
and only in one direction, this should cause no problems.
Zippers: Heavy duty (9 mm) black nylon zippers are usually used.
This combined the visual effect of an old fashioned Post Office parcel
sack when made entirely from canvas. Normal size is a 24 inch diameter
circular base and 36 inch high walls.
Colour of canvas used can dramatically change the visual effect. The
natural off-white canvas either brown canvas or real soft leather
reinforced bottom and hanging straps looks very workman-like and soon
acquires a very lived in look. Black canvas with black canvas or leather
reinforcement has a totally different impact.
The drawstring around the neck of the sack can be tightly secured
or left tantalisingly loose or even used to allow the head outside
Four strong wide reinforcing straps can be used to hang the bag from
four sold welded 'D' rings. Your own straps or cord wrapped around
the bag can reduce the internal size quite drastically.
round the whole circumference of the walls are spaced so that, even
when the internal size of the bag is reduced by half, there are still
plenty of air holes uncovered.
Rectangular, semi flat construction. It has arched ends to prevent
the upper layer of the bag from pressing on the face. Length approximately
seven feet, width two-and-a-half feet.
Two zippers along one short edge allow locking (from outside or in).
This opening can also be adapted to leave the head outside the bag,
by linking the two zip pulls with a short piece of cord under the
back of the neck (this design has been modified since the main catalogue
was printed). Six large welded 'D' rings allow for the bag to be anchored
to a bed or other surface. As there are air holes at both ends of
the bag, the 'victim' can enter eider head or feet first.
Again the choice of all canvas, all leather or a combination of the
two materials may not be entirely a matter of cost. The sensual and
dramatic visual effects are completely different. The choice of colour
combinations is, also, a matter of personal taste.
Certainly leather internal sleeves added to any canvas or canvas &
leather SLEEPSACK can bring an element of luxury, especially if no
clothes are to be worn inside.
Leather shiny side inside is another alternative choice when ordering
an all leather SS (rather than the suede-side inside, as is usual
in most leather "garments"). So, the look of someone laced
and strapped into a shiny all-leather SLEEPSACK can be sensational
from the outside but the feel of being naked inside - is something
else. Of course shiny leather outside and leather lining inside is
the ultimate but almost doubles the price!
The MARK2 has additional reinforcing bands (leather) around the body
at the chest, waist, seat, above knees, below knees and at ankles.
Attached to these bands are 12 large 'D' rings down the side profiles
and two rows of smaller 'D' rings on metal plates four inches apart
down the front of the sack.
All sacks have 26 cm high collar which closes to two sizes with snap
fasteners at either side of the neck. Hoods do not attach to this
but most good hoods cover the collar, making a neat closure.
Internal Sleeves: These internal pockets are attached to the sack
from armpit to tips of fingers. They make the sack totally escape
proof but can not be used by people who intend to put themselves into
Zipper action: Three tough black nylon zippers are standard to all
SS. To close the front, one from ankles to approximately the crotch
area, and the second from above the crotch to the throat.
Zippers have no backing flaps as these often crease up causing ridges
when the SLEEPSACK is laced tighter, but for people with chest hair
it may be a useful addition to ask for.
Back zipper: In both standard models this gives access from the waist
to knees. This has it's uses, but for people who won't be using it,
it can be (quite literally) a pain-in the ass. When ordering, it can
be omitted on request.
EXTRAS WHICH CAN
BE ADDED TO SLEEPSACKS
SHOULDER SUSPENSION STRAPS:
An 'extra' which appeals to many people but can reduce the general
comfort of a MARK2 SLEEPSACK is the addition of heavy leather shoulder
straps. These are anchored from waist in front to waist in back, distributing
the weight. Suspension is relatively comfortable in a Sleepsack, but
unless tightly laced it can throw some extra tightness under the armpits.
Also note that it can be physically dangerous getting someone who
is in a Sleepsack lying down into an upright position. All precaution
should be taken that unexpected weight doesn't end up in you over
balancing with someone unable to protect themselves.
TIT ACCESS: Holes in chest of a SLEEPSACK are another possible 'extra'
but the position of holes tends to shift because of lacing. Open holes
also reduce the sense of encasement but holes with openable covers
offer a quite usable alternative. Clear
decisions on these
matters of personal preferences should be made before ordering.
LATEX LINING: Requests for latex or oilskin lining are frequent and
possible but usually the recommendation is that by not commit yourself
to a lining, anything from a latex cat-suit, all rubber diving suit,
foul weather naval oilskins or motorcycle leathers are practical alternatives
inside a SLEEPSACK. A permanent latex lining may limit the time that
can comfortably be spent in the sack, reduce the options available
and practically double the price.
NO FOOT BAG: For some people into tickling torture or others who like
to see a good hefty pair of boots, a SLEEPSACK without feet is a practical
alternative. No foot bag does reduce the totality of putting someone
into a 'sack' but there are several practical advantages including
using the bag on people of different heights.
HORIZONTAL SUSPENSION: An imaginative FETTERS customer in Cleveland
USA has come up with the idea of a free-hanging SLEEPSACK but we had
to supply a special sling to make it possible. Getting the Sleepsack
suspended level involves a length process of tying off 12 ropes with
the encased body on a long table. When the ropes are all made off,
the table (or could be hospital trolley) is then removed and the isolation
N.B. Again it must be stressed that standard 'D' rings should not
be used for suspension.
HOODS: The front closing of the Sleepsack collar prevents attaching
hoods, most of which have back closing. The BAG HOOD is the most useful
for the use with a SLEEPSACK. Any tighter hood takes time to unlace
in case of emergency. The question of whether the hood collar should
be under or over the SLEEPSACK collar is a matter of personal choice
ZIPPER ALTERNATIVE: Some people may prefer a single front zip from
ankles to throat. This can be added if preferred but it does not prevent
access at cock level.
BODY STRAP SETS: The additional effect of six leather straps around
the body may also feel good even if they are not strictly necessary!
The straps can be threaded through the larger ' D' rings (which are
strategically place down the sides of the MARK 2) and encircle the
whole body. This means threading them before the body is in the bag
or indulging in a lot of rolling around and weight shifting to get
them into position.
Alternatively, after the sack has been closed, the straps can be slid
through the side 'D' rings WRONG SIDE UP across the top of the body
and then strapped closed IN FRONT pulling the sides of the sack tightly
towards the front. This means that the added tightness is in the form
of canvas rather than six narrow bands of leather.
N.B. The 'D' rings on the SLEEPSACK are not designed to take any suspended
LEARNING TO LIVE WITH A SLEEPSACK OR BODYBAG
More and more, FETTERS is discovering that detailed instructions for
the use of some pieces of equipment are helpful to many customers.
The general objective of, say, a SLEEPSACK is quite obvious to anyone
meeting one for the first time (whether it's made to measure or a
general size to fit all comers) but a prescribed routine for getting
it on and closed for the first time can save energy, confusion and
broken fingernails. Suggestions for alternative and elaborated uses
may also irk some people but can act as a useful stimulus for more
ingenious people to discover the additional variations.
GETTING IT ON
First time putting on or climbing into a FETTERS SLEEPSACK can seem
slightly complicated. It's not a piece of equipment you can physically
force someone into. The sack should be lain out flat on the floor
or bed with the two front zippers open and the back one closed. The
intended wearer, dressed or undressed as preferred should then sit
into it and put the feet/boots down into the foot-bag. Next, lying
back (perhaps with some help by having the collar lifted slightly),
arms can the slid into the internal sleeves. Once the arms are in
position it should be possible to lie back, leaving the front free
First time users may find things slightly tight, but the sack will
'give' slightly. If the wearer can be persuaded to move tighter upward
into the shoulder area, closing the ankle zip for the first time will
be made easier.
ZIPS: The slightly complicated process of starting off the open ended
zippers (similar to anorak zippers) needs a little practice. Make
sure that the ends are fully connected before beginning to slide them.
By tightening the leather ankle strap first, strain is taken off the
actual zipper ends as they are connected.
Close the first zip only partially, leaving space to engage the top
zipper which, because it has a 'pull on each end means that TWO 'pulls'
have to be at the bottom before the zipper can be connected and begin
By gripping the sides of the sack, extra slack can make the engaging
of the top zipper much easier. Once it is closing smoothly, close
it to chest level.
Collar: First close the first snaps on the inside. You will now notice
a single snap fastener base on the collar. This is for the snap on
the top 'pull' of the top zip. It will prevent the zipper being worked
down after being closed. Fasten his (avoiding pressing on the Adam's
Apple) and close the second set of collar snaps.
Because the top zipper is "double pull' the gap at crotch height
can be opened for access or locked closed with a padlock (not included
in list price).
Basically, the sack is now closed and escape proof. Any other lacing,
strapping or lashing down to surfaces, hoods, gags, etc. are a matter
of your personal taste or imagination.
Lacing: The small 'D' rings down the front of a MK2 allow for considerable
tightening, including feet. Nylon cord or picture cord is suitable.
Two pieces, each 6 to 10 feet long, are recommended. This avoids having
to deal with too long a piece of cord. It's usually more practical
to start lacing from chest to waist and then feet to crotch area.
The degree of tightness depends on the stamina of the 'victim' and
levels of endurance but too tight lacing can seriously reduce the
length of time for which the sack is bearable.
Further adjustments: If using a sack which is too large for the occupant,
by using a cord between the 'D' rings across the back of the sack,
the general circumference of the sack can be reduced.
Alternative method of putting someone into a SLEEPSACK: It is dangerous
to try and zip or lace someone into a Sleepsack while standing up
unless the shoulders of the sack the securely anchored to the ceiling
with feet touching the floor. The first moves can be made with the
'victim' sitting on stool or chair, then standing while ankles and
collars have been closed and shoulder straps attached to a ceiling
GETTING IT ON WITHOUT OUTSIDE HELP! (USING SLEEPSACK OR BODYBAG SOLO)
Many people like the idea of being able to sleep all night or spend
prolonged periods encased in a sleepsack or bodybag. Used with caution
and ingenuity this is perfectly possible and relatively safe. The
addition of other restraints, padlocks and hoods does, of course,
increase the possibility of something going wrong.
A SLEEPSACK self-applied presents few problems, except that the arms
can not be in the internal pockets.
The routine for getting in unaided is as follows.
a) Open the two front zippers having attached a 12 inch loop of thin
cord to the lower pull of the TOP zipper.
b) Lay the bag on floor or bed
c) Climb in and close ankle strap and collar (inside & outside
d) Engage lower zipper and pull three quarters of the way up.
f) Engage top zipper at crotch and move BOTH pulls towards throat.
This will mean moving hands from their position above the top zip
pulls to below them.
g) Having taken both top zip pulls to throat, anchor top pull to collar
h) Settle back and draw bottom pull of top zipper down to waist (using
This will leave your hands free inside the closed sack. If wearing
clothes you may be able to force your hands deep down inside trouser
pockets for a feeling of more complete helplessness.
Alternatively, by working first one hand behind and into the small
of your back and then the same with the other, the weight of the body
then traps them there until you work free.
If you loose any circulation, the process of re-opening the sack may
be more complicated than you anticipated. The pulls do not open as
easily from inside - so allow time - and avoid panic if things don't
seem to be going too well. A short rest and relax can work wonders.
Take the pull of the top zipper right up to the neck, open collar
and then work both pulls down carefully, avoiding dragging either
pull too far from the line of the zipper teeth. Strain on side of
a zipper whilst it's being slid may result in jamming - or more permanent
damage. By changing body tensions strain on zippers can be reduced.
EXPERIMENTS WITH AUTO-BONDAGE
The first few times you use a SLEEPSACK solo, if you can have somebody
around to help out just in case you encounter unexpected difficulties
- it is a good precaution. Again it can't be stressed too often that
the addition of a hood or padlocks can complicate easy exit from this
situation. A padlock across the crotch zipper with the key released
INSIDE the bag may result in hours of manoeuvring to retrieve it -
but if you drop it as you attempt to re-open the padlock and it lands
outside the sack - you're there till somebody comes to your rescue.
The whole question of AUTO BONDAGE (self-applied restraints) deserves
a lengthy 'Worksheet. Written descriptions and ideas are currently
being sought. Your contributions would be welcome.
SOLO USE OF BODYBAG
This is much less complicated, being simply an oblong bag with two
zips to close it at one end. There are adequate breathing holes at
both ends . ........ REVISE / ADD TO
This was described in previous catalogues but is not included in the
current one . Recently we have had several requests for a bodybag
which allowed a degree of self-applied restraint. The old design is
being re-thought - but your ideas for developing the principle would
be of interest.
The idea is to include in the BODYBAG Mk2 ankle loops which would
keep the feet apart (boot or no boots would need to be specified when
ordering). Secondly, an internal 'pocket' the full width of the bag
and reaching from shoulder blades to approximately the finger ends.
Once inside with the zip closed, by rolling slightly to one side,
one arm can be worked behind the back and upwards into the pocket.
Then, by relaxing, that arm is trapped flat against the side of the
body, but separated from it by the wall of the 'pocket'. Next, rolling
the weight of the body in the other direction makes it possible to
trap the second arm in the 'pocket'. The weight of the relaxed body
creates a feeling of considerable restriction.
Release is achieved by the slightly laborious process of rolling the
body first to one side and working one arm free and then repeating
on the other side.
All FETTERS bodybags, Sleepsacks and Mailsacks are made to take considerable
stress - but additional cords which pull 'D' rings or rivets in unplanned-for
directions should be avoided. 'D' rings on the sides were designed
to be used as anchor points - preferably when bodystraps are also
through them, giving them stability. These 'D' rings should not be
used as suspension points
In any event, games involving bags and sacks can give hours of challenging
and rewarding enjoyment for those inside and outside.
END 7-BAGS & SACK
8 = HOODS & HEADTRIPS
Because the head is the centre of sight/hearing/taste/smell, the simple
act of hooding or even blindfolding effectively changes the whole
personality balance. In a series of scientific tests it was proved
that by creating the effect of separating head from body, to most
of the people tested, the head represented "self" and in
the circumstances the body could be viewed as a totally detached object.
The attractions and advantages of hooding in Erotic Bondage games
and 'Scenes' fall into two main categories
The visual effect:
Not only can hoods look very dramatic, by removing the identifiable
appearance the wearer a hood can:
A) Act as a release for a self-conscious 'victim',
B) Release the person outside from inhibitions caused by familiarity
with (or fear of) the hooded person
C) Free both parties to fantasise that they are dealing with someone
quite different. (However, at the same time, it is important that
when hooding someone this does not seem to indicating that you don't
like the look of the person you're with).
The general phenomenon of masks has been the subject of several books.
The psychological effects on both wearer and viewer are rooted deep
in the human mind. A false or featureless face makes it difficult
to relate to it as another human being. A mask or hood may be deliberately
designed to create a particular character or dramatic image, or the
aim may be to de-personalise. Certainly the removal of direct eye
contact or expression, even behind dark glasses, goggles or a mask
with "pinhole" eyes (which allow the wearer to see but hides
any expression in their eyes) results in a high degree of depersonalisation.
Total removal of 'facial expression' is more difficult to achieve
because the shape of every seam, line of stitching, eye or mouth-hole
may create the appearance of facial features. The androidal image
given by some conventional leather masks can be very attractive to
see, and at the same time allow the wearer to either become someone
else or nobody in particular
In the field of Erotic Bondage the general range of mask images available
has been very limited. Fantasy Character or Personality masks"
seems to be a whole area ripe for development.
The tactile effect:
Texture and shape affects both the wearer and controller. Whether
skin tight, heavily padded, rigid or box-like, or inflated and distorted
in form .... from inside and out a range of very sensual alternatives
are possible. Each hood or helmet can to some extent be played like
a musical instrument. The acoustic properties of leather being caressed
by gloved or ungloved fingers, a more rigid casing being drummed on,
the introduction of inescapable sound all can be used as part of sensual
games. Other sensual changes such as inability to see, muffling of
speech or hearing can heighten any effect. Pressure and tightness
of a hood can be varied to modulate the intensity of a 'Scene'. Because
the head is the centre for so many different senses a hood or helmet
can create a sense of total 'imprisonment' even when no other form
of restraint is used.
Hoods for "Tops":
This is a subject to explore. Masks or hoods specifically for the
dominator of a situation could also be an interesting area for development.
Elements of de-personalization or change of character can often help
the controller of any Scene. The design of the hood may be less restrictive,
but whether used for visual dramatic effect or just to hide the identity
of one or more people involved in a scene it opens up new territories.
Certainly an unhooded 'victim' under the control of unrecognisable
people is a reversal which has a powerful impact.
In general hoods are reasonably safe to use. Certainly, tightness
of the neck and adequate air should be of prime concern. Leaving somebody
unattended when hooded is a matter of personal capacity and perhaps
even mutual agreement - but the controller must be aware of the risks
and assume full responsibility. (Notes on the legal responsibilities
of S/M games are being compiled - contributions welcome).
A less obvious Safety Factor is that the face soon begins to swell
inside a hood. A nose opening which is large enough when the hood
is first put on may soon become partially obstructed as the cheeks
swell. This can lead to serious discomfort if not something more dangerous.
Another important general point is that what is bearable at first
may cause panic when other factors such as restriction of movement
or intensity of action change.
Other safety points worth noting:
A) Breathing holes might become blocked when a hood shifts during
action. Particularly if anchored in some way a hood can easily move.
B) Mouth/eye zippers are popular with people who like a variety of
opportunities. Facial hair can be a problem, zips should be opened
and closed with care, and if possible have some backing to them. Pressure
upon either opened or closed zips can be painful and damage the skin.
C) "Poppers" used with hoods or helmets can have unexpected
results. Because of restricted breathing, fumes can be more potent
and perhaps hang around longer. Expect the unexpected until you have
personal experience to guide you.
D) A very tight hood can cause wearer to bite inside of cheeks.
E) If the wearer of an eyeless hood is in darkness for too long this
may produce a state of slight mental disorientation. When a hood is
removed care should be taken because both thought and movement of
the 'victim' may not be predictable.
F) In the same circumstances light can be painful on eyes which have
been in darkness for even a short length of time.
G) NEVER use a hood to suspend body- weight.
The effect on neck and spine can be disastrous - and 'D' rings on
hoods are seldom designed to take serious strain!
H) Gags under hoods which have no mouth holes aren't recommended.
In an emergency such as vomiting, the whole hood has to be removed
- and laces can get into knots.
So, finally, as a general note; more particularly than in any other
form of bondage game having a pair of sharp scissors (preferably blunt-pointed)
handy to cut laces or in emergency the hood itself is a wise precaution.
FITTINGS & FIXTURES .
A hood which can allow the wearer to see or not see, talk or not talk
gives much more variety to the action. However, in practical terms
these options can also weaken the general structure or visual impact
of a hood. Certainly, too many metal snap-on fasteners can make it
uncomfortable to wear. The act of pressing on a snap-fastener cover
to close eyes or mouth may cause in painful bruising. Some people
don't seem to mind this and feel it worth it to have the variable
The degree of tightness possible may depend on whether the leather
is soft and pliable or heavy and tough. Aiming for a hood which allows
too many alternatives may result in it not fulfilling any one purpose
well, and cost as much as buying a heavy duty plus a more soft and
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS .
Before buying a hood it is worth considering the following points:
Adjustment of a hood to different sized and shaped heads, and different
degrees of pressure is usually achieved by lacing - but this can also
be a tedious business - particularly if the victim is already lying
A useful alternative is the type of hood which has two side laces
for adjustment plus a back zip to allow easy removal and replacement.
Conversely, this adds hardware and may result in discomfort lying
on side laces. Velcro tape offers a possible alternative for closing
hoods, and certainly allows finer adjustment. Experiments are being
made. Your ideas and news of improved materials are always welcome.
Closed or open nose?:
The distinction in the FETTERS catalogue is of a hood with totally
open-ended nose or one which has closed end with breathing holes.
The latter does give a greater sense of being inside something. However,
a nose with the bottom end open may be essential to some wearers.
Even mouth breathing holes may be necessary to avoid the fear of not
being able to breathe.
A hood with no eyes may not be light-proof if the nose has an open
end - unless eye-pads and even a strap across the eyes is keeping
pads tightly in position. (Eye pads can be impractical for wearers
of contact lenses). Breathing is further restricted in eyeless hoods
because eye holes also admit a certain amount of air.
This useful alternative to complete eye holes gives the wearer limited
vision without allowing the expression in the eyes to be a means of
communication. It also avoids the face of the hood
assuming a recognisable personality (which eye holes of any shape
tend to give).
As an alternative to or addition to a hood, a simple blindfold can
be very useful in many games or 'Scenes'. The traditional handkerchief
is very unstable and can easily be dislodged. A shaped leather blindfold
which is basically flat often allows limited vision. Only a padded
and adjustable one can be guaranteed to exclude all light. Pressure
on contact lenses has already been mentioned.
Blindfolds which attach to hoods with snap fasteners have also been
discussed. A single snap-fastener, well to the side of the hood is
usually better than snaps over the cheekbones. A separate blindfold
with an adjustable strap which can if necessary be anchored to a hood
is the ideal solution.
Closed or open mouth?:
Ideally, a removable cover gives more opportunities, but even the
softest hood, if tailored to fit closely, may prevent the jaw from
opening fully. Even a gag which holds the mouth wide may be usable
with a relatively snug hood. But, for any activity when the jaw may
have to "work", a very tight chin on a hood can be a drag!
A zip mouth gives a simple practical alternative - but brings with
it problems already mentioned under Safety. Although a removable chin
section can be added to most of the FETTERS hood patterns, this will
reduce the amount of tightening possible and add at least eight snap
fasteners to an area which may be tender. A removable muzzle cup attached
by straps around and over the top of the head may be another practical
Most FETTERS Standard hoods have soft two inch collars - which allow
for collars of firmer leather or metal to be used over the top when
required. However, some hood models do have a firmer narrow neck strap
and 'D' ring centre front fixed permanently. Study the revised descriptions
of the 'Standard' hoods. Minor details can be changed when ordering.
Longer collars can also be attractive. Soft fitted collars breaking
onto the shoulders have great visual appeal, but don't always fit
An even longer collar on a hood, reaching down both back and front
to a strap which circles the chest and back (under the armpits) has
a particularly dramatic appeal and psychological effect.
Back vent alternatives:
Whether a hood has laces or zipper, some form of internal lining to
prevent hair getting caught or sticking out is essential. For most
zippers a three inch wide 'tongue' of soft leather is all that's necessary.
For laces, anything wider tends to get scrunched up and look untidy.
A full vent fixed to both back edges of the hood allows it to fully
envelope the head even before it's fastened has many advantages. This
then scrunches up to form a ridge of soft padding under laces or zipper
and does not look too untidy!
Eyelets or Cinch Rings:
These are a matter of personal choice. On a very soft leather hood
cinch rings (as on hiking boots) are stronger than eyelets, and many
people find them easier to thread. Conversely, some people complain
that the rivets in cinch rings dig into the scalp if laced too tightly.
With a full vent under them, this is avoided. Descriptions for each
hood in the FETTERS range lists whether cinch rings or eyelets are
'standard'- but your order can specify your preference.
A simple padlock through the bottom two 'D' rings of a hood with laces
locked inside (out of reach of fingers) can have a strong psychological
effect. However, a zipped panel which closes over lacing and locks
to the collar is a new and very effective 'extra' available for most
hoods. This makes the hood impossible to remove even when hands are
free. However, it does also reduce the degree of adjustability of
the hood lacing.
'D' rings and attachment points:
Several illustrations in the current catalogue show 'D' rings on the
tops of hoods. These are very useful for attaching and restricting
head movement - but on very soft hoods these can easily tear the leather
- and perhaps press into the scalp. They are no longer 'Standard'
on most hoods. You need to ask for them when ordering.
Attachments can cause a hood to shift and move breathing holes away
from nostrils. Hood fixing points should never be used to suspend
Holes for ears, pony tails and beards are other possibilities. Certainly
the imaginative use of headphones for music, speech or "White
noise" can add to any Scene.
Whether ornamental or giving specific character to the masked head
such additions to a hood can be used to great effect. Whether permanently
fixed or temporary (glued or drawn on) they can be used to reinforce
a fantasy or humiliate the wearer. Open faced hoods:
These are useful as a basis for attaching gags, blindfold or face-mask
to while giving access to the face when required. The exact line of
the facial opening demands accurate measurements and very specific
instructions when ordering. Muzzles or Bridles over hoods:
These can be used very effectively over soft hoods perhaps to intensify
the situation for a short period during a longer scene. With heavier
head harnesses the soft hood underneath can reduce wear-and-tear on
the skin and prolong the time for which they can be worn, but from
a safety point of view, this also means there are two to take off
in an emergency. A chinless hood with eye holes can have a second
hood over it quite safely. Semi-rigid hoods:
Most of the standard hoods listed can have more solid panels riveted
to them to add weight and rigidity. This is a relatively new development.
If it sounds attractive - make your demands. We can't resist a challenge.
Psychologically, a more firm 'box' is a very different experience.
These are necessarily less close-fitting, and there is a tendency
to rub the skin. Medieval knights wore soft leather 'balaclavas' under
their metal helmets. So far we've found nobody willing to make iron
helmets in the "Man in the Iron Mask" tradition - but a
series of prototypes made in rigid leather are looking good. We're
still working on them - and welcome the impetus of someone actually
arriving on our doorstep knowing exactly what they want. The possibility
of sculpted heads (with or without defined personality) perhaps made
in glass fibre - and lockable - offer many exciting alternatives.
With soft padded interior and rigid finger-proof outside shell, these
would have many visual, tactile and practical uses.
Adhesive tape, leather thongs, clingfilm or soft rubber strips can
all be used to create an instant helmet in a mummification scene.
Degree of tightness and ability to breathe must, naturally, be carefully
controlled. With adhesive tape it's perhaps advisable to use a stocking
or thin polythene sheet as a base. Method of cutting them off also
Cooking foil can be used to create a semi-rigid 'metal' helmet. If
carefully removed (and thick enough) this might be re-used or dissected
to make a pattern for a more permanent form-fitting helmet. In any
event the wrapping process can in itself be an exhilarating experience
for whoever is being wrapped or doing the wrapping (or watching).
Scientific experiments in total reduction of sensitivity resulted
in the development of a wooden box lined and padded to hold a head
immovable inside. Fixed to floor or bed this completely isolates the
head from the world (and from the rest of the body). Breathing through
a tube (mouth and nose) is controllable. Psychologically the rigidity
of the box creates a very very powerful effect - and it's not for
A variety of practical protective headgear for boxing, fencing, Kendo
or other Martial Arts offers a wide range of practical and dramatic
uses. Motorcycle crash helmets, particularly the Open Face type, can
be used in conjunction with face covers, soft hoods and gags producing
a range of excellent results. A crash helmet has the added advantage
of being usable in 'outdoor' adventures. Old fashioned Flying helmets
also have a very definite visual appeal - if you can find one. (If
anyone has an old one we can copy - we'll welcome the opportunity
to make them more easily available). Gas Masks can also be incorporated
with some helmets. A variety of types are easily available by mail-order.
Other helmets and masks used in industrial health and safety breathing
situations can be interesting.
Flexible moulded light latex hoods are quite readily available with
or without eyes/mouths, with mouth tubes, with built-in gags, open
faced or totally enclosed. Used in conjunction with other hoods or
helmets these soft latex hoods can add an extra element to any Scene.
Heavier rubber hoods including inflatables have unique properties
of both feel and visual effect but are more expensive and more difficult