from the

first published by 'Fetters' 1980



Very few people can accurately anticipate their reaction to being put inside a dark restrictive 'soft space'. Whether voluntarily or as punishment, the experience is certainly something which changes and develops with time, more than most forms of restraint.

The initial impact is something the mind needs time to adjust to. For some people the first effect is overwhelming but then the mind and body quite soon accept the circumstances. Other people who anticipate little threat at being put into a bag may, after a very short time, develop an unexpected sense of helplessness or panic. Even after the first experience, changed circumstances outside the sack can produce dramatically different and unpredictable reactions.

In any event, the effect is usually progressive. So although very few people can accurately predict their reactions, the basic situation is attractive to many and discovering your own or someone else's level of tolerance in this field can be exhilarating.

Systematic experiments in the total reduction of sensory
awareness (sound, sight, touch ) have bee conducted in universities
and other establishments around the world. A variety of effects
have been discovered and identified, and the associated techniques
are now being applied in both space travel and 'brain washing'.

However, in the field of Erotic Bondage the back-to-the-womb experience can be, for many people, delightfully relaxing. A lot of FETTERS customers are able to 'switch off' by spending restful nights inside a SLEEPSACK. Even people who have to put themselves into the sack can stay put after the first excitement has worn off.

Whether you find that the experience intensifies with time or subsides into a relaxed and luxurious lack of responsibility - you won't know until you've tried it As long as no harsh pressure points threaten to interrupt circulation or cause chafing, different types of bag can be endured/enjoyed for hours. even when quite tightly plaid. With suitable drainage the period can he lengthened even further.

The full variety of different games people play is too broad to review here. Visual imagery, texture contact. dramatic situation, length of time, with or without hoods ..... The best advise to follow your own likes don't over complicate any situation too early in the game and constantly observe safety precautions, particularly if the 'victim' is not clearly visible.

When you've read his leaflet and done some particular experimenting, your suggestions as to what should be added to these notes (or anything you may disagree with) would be welcomed. Jim Stewart October ' 85.

In terms of restraint / confinement / endurance, 'The Bag' is a general area which offers a whole range of different alternatives.
For identification purposes, there are three main subdivisions:

1. Basic SACK
If large enough to take a whole human body with limbs fully extended, even with the head inside the sack most people can learn to deal with the situation at least for a short period. But the psychological effect, being accumulative, needs to be explored. Not knowing what is going on outside or hearing sounds rich may or may not be interpreted correctly is, in itself, powerfully effective.

A sack which does not allow room for full extension of the limbs is very much more potent. Even a slight reduction of mobility, without any other restrictions, can very quickly have a telling effect on both mind and body. Limbs soon react painfully and the mind acknowledges not only the discomfort but the vulnerability much sooner. Adjusting to the limited (though perfectly adequate) supply of air demands quite strenuous mental exercise. If the internal size of the bag is gradually reduced, the situation can soon become intensely oppressive.

The head outside a sack which is closed around the neck can perhaps intensify the feeling of helplessness. The neck cord need not be tight if wrists are secured inside the bag.

Suspension: If the sack is hung, putting body weight onto the
'walls' of the confined area, the physical experience is altered
completely, and can quickly become barely tolerable.
N.B. The strength and durability of any sack used for suspension must be equal to the task.

Similar in proportion to a conventional sleeping bag, this can also render the person inside totally helpless without any additional

restraint being applied. Many games have evolved from normal camping expeditions. Tough Government Surplus bags can form the basis of a very useful piece of equipment. 'D' rings added to serve as anchor points (or to prevent external straps from being worked free) can make an ordinary bag very versatile.

Whether the head is inside or out, such a gag can keep someone quite comfortably but totally confined for quite long periods. If the head is aside, a 'snorkel breathing pipe can be used to ensure an adequate supply of air (but constant monitoring is advisable). Bags made from waterproof or padded fabric can intensify the experience in terms of generated heat. Heavy cloths or additional restraints worn before the 'victim' is put into the bag can extend the parameters of the situation infinitely.

Being stood up or suspended within such a bag can completely change the tensions, but care must be taken. The possible danger of lifting or moving around the dead-weight of someone who is totally helpless perhaps needs a separate 'worksheet'.

This is a term used in the FETTERS catalogue to describe a more form fitting type of full-length bodybag. A soft and malleable covering can be used to subject a body to varying intensities of confinement through the use of added lacing or straps. Construction details depend entirely on the likes and dislikes of the users. As these are usually made to order, variations such as materials used, access points, anchoring points, strap or laced tightening possibilities are all optional.
The main thing is that the different concepts; a form fitting bag, a rectangular flat bag or kit-bag shaped sack with round bottom and straight walls cover most eventualities in the subject under review here.

In each of the three main 'bag' categories, standard patterns have been reached after much trial and error and customer feedback. These designs combine the most popular features and help reduce the number of choices left to someone investing for the first time in a custom made bag but, of course, specific features can be omitted or added.

Firstly, most designs can be made entirely from canvas with or without reinforcement panels and bands, from canvas with leather reinforcement or totally in leather. As you can imagine, the durability and erotic effect of each type of fabric makes them all very different, but does not change the basic structure.

Canvas: This is a 15 ounce cotton duck available in off-white, brown or black.
Leather: Heavy motorcycle clothing weight leather is used, usually black, but a pale natural colour is an attractive alternative for people who like, for example, the look of well lived-in Cowboy Chaps. The leather finish depends on current availability. Preferably, a not too shiny finish is chosen unless something otherwise is specifically requested.

Hardware: Large 'D' rings are always welded closed but those used for the lacing cord across the front are not always so (depending upon availability) but, because stress on these should only be moderate and only in one direction, this should cause no problems.

Zippers: Heavy duty (9 mm) black nylon zippers are usually used.

This combined the visual effect of an old fashioned Post Office parcel sack when made entirely from canvas. Normal size is a 24 inch diameter circular base and 36 inch high walls.
Colour of canvas used can dramatically change the visual effect. The natural off-white canvas either brown canvas or real soft leather reinforced bottom and hanging straps looks very workman-like and soon acquires a very lived in look. Black canvas with black canvas or leather reinforcement has a totally different impact.

The drawstring around the neck of the sack can be tightly secured or left tantalisingly loose or even used to allow the head outside the bag.

Four strong wide reinforcing straps can be used to hang the bag from four sold welded 'D' rings. Your own straps or cord wrapped around the bag can reduce the internal size quite drastically.

Breathing holes round the whole circumference of the walls are spaced so that, even when the internal size of the bag is reduced by half, there are still plenty of air holes uncovered.

Rectangular, semi flat construction. It has arched ends to prevent the upper layer of the bag from pressing on the face. Length approximately seven feet, width two-and-a-half feet.

Two zippers along one short edge allow locking (from outside or in). This opening can also be adapted to leave the head outside the bag, by linking the two zip pulls with a short piece of cord under the back of the neck (this design has been modified since the main catalogue was printed). Six large welded 'D' rings allow for the bag to be anchored to a bed or other surface. As there are air holes at both ends of the bag, the 'victim' can enter eider head or feet first.

Again the choice of all canvas, all leather or a combination of the two materials may not be entirely a matter of cost. The sensual and dramatic visual effects are completely different. The choice of colour combinations is, also, a matter of personal taste.

Certainly leather internal sleeves added to any canvas or canvas & leather SLEEPSACK can bring an element of luxury, especially if no clothes are to be worn inside.
Leather shiny side inside is another alternative choice when ordering an all leather SS (rather than the suede-side inside, as is usual in most leather "garments"). So, the look of someone laced and strapped into a shiny all-leather SLEEPSACK can be sensational from the outside but the feel of being naked inside - is something else. Of course shiny leather outside and leather lining inside is the ultimate but almost doubles the price!

The MARK2 has additional reinforcing bands (leather) around the body at the chest, waist, seat, above knees, below knees and at ankles. Attached to these bands are 12 large 'D' rings down the side profiles and two rows of smaller 'D' rings on metal plates four inches apart down the front of the sack.

All sacks have 26 cm high collar which closes to two sizes with snap fasteners at either side of the neck. Hoods do not attach to this but most good hoods cover the collar, making a neat closure.

Internal Sleeves: These internal pockets are attached to the sack from armpit to tips of fingers. They make the sack totally escape proof but can not be used by people who intend to put themselves into a SLEEPSACK.

Zipper action: Three tough black nylon zippers are standard to all SS. To close the front, one from ankles to approximately the crotch area, and the second from above the crotch to the throat.
Zippers have no backing flaps as these often crease up causing ridges when the SLEEPSACK is laced tighter, but for people with chest hair it may be a useful addition to ask for.
Back zipper: In both standard models this gives access from the waist to knees. This has it's uses, but for people who won't be using it, it can be (quite literally) a pain-in the ass. When ordering, it can be omitted on request.


An 'extra' which appeals to many people but can reduce the general comfort of a MARK2 SLEEPSACK is the addition of heavy leather shoulder straps. These are anchored from waist in front to waist in back, distributing the weight. Suspension is relatively comfortable in a Sleepsack, but unless tightly laced it can throw some extra tightness under the armpits.
Also note that it can be physically dangerous getting someone who is in a Sleepsack lying down into an upright position. All precaution should be taken that unexpected weight doesn't end up in you over balancing with someone unable to protect themselves.

TIT ACCESS: Holes in chest of a SLEEPSACK are another possible 'extra' but the position of holes tends to shift because of lacing. Open holes also reduce the sense of encasement but holes with openable covers offer a quite usable alternative. Clear

decisions on these matters of personal preferences should be made before ordering.

LATEX LINING: Requests for latex or oilskin lining are frequent and possible but usually the recommendation is that by not commit yourself to a lining, anything from a latex cat-suit, all rubber diving suit, foul weather naval oilskins or motorcycle leathers are practical alternatives inside a SLEEPSACK. A permanent latex lining may limit the time that can comfortably be spent in the sack, reduce the options available and practically double the price.

NO FOOT BAG: For some people into tickling torture or others who like to see a good hefty pair of boots, a SLEEPSACK without feet is a practical alternative. No foot bag does reduce the totality of putting someone into a 'sack' but there are several practical advantages including using the bag on people of different heights.

HORIZONTAL SUSPENSION: An imaginative FETTERS customer in Cleveland USA has come up with the idea of a free-hanging SLEEPSACK but we had to supply a special sling to make it possible. Getting the Sleepsack suspended level involves a length process of tying off 12 ropes with the encased body on a long table. When the ropes are all made off, the table (or could be hospital trolley) is then removed and the isolation is total.
N.B. Again it must be stressed that standard 'D' rings should not be used for suspension.

HOODS: The front closing of the Sleepsack collar prevents attaching hoods, most of which have back closing. The BAG HOOD is the most useful for the use with a SLEEPSACK. Any tighter hood takes time to unlace in case of emergency. The question of whether the hood collar should be under or over the SLEEPSACK collar is a matter of personal choice and discretion.

ZIPPER ALTERNATIVE: Some people may prefer a single front zip from ankles to throat. This can be added if preferred but it does not prevent access at cock level.

BODY STRAP SETS: The additional effect of six leather straps around the body may also feel good even if they are not strictly necessary! The straps can be threaded through the larger ' D' rings (which are strategically place down the sides of the MARK 2) and encircle the whole body. This means threading them before the body is in the bag or indulging in a lot of rolling around and weight shifting to get them into position.

Alternatively, after the sack has been closed, the straps can be slid through the side 'D' rings WRONG SIDE UP across the top of the body and then strapped closed IN FRONT pulling the sides of the sack tightly towards the front. This means that the added tightness is in the form of canvas rather than six narrow bands of leather.
N.B. The 'D' rings on the SLEEPSACK are not designed to take any suspended weight.


More and more, FETTERS is discovering that detailed instructions for the use of some pieces of equipment are helpful to many customers. The general objective of, say, a SLEEPSACK is quite obvious to anyone meeting one for the first time (whether it's made to measure or a general size to fit all comers) but a prescribed routine for getting it on and closed for the first time can save energy, confusion and broken fingernails. Suggestions for alternative and elaborated uses may also irk some people but can act as a useful stimulus for more ingenious people to discover the additional variations.

First time putting on or climbing into a FETTERS SLEEPSACK can seem slightly complicated. It's not a piece of equipment you can physically force someone into. The sack should be lain out flat on the floor or bed with the two front zippers open and the back one closed. The intended wearer, dressed or undressed as preferred should then sit into it and put the feet/boots down into the foot-bag. Next, lying back (perhaps with some help by having the collar lifted slightly), arms can the slid into the internal sleeves. Once the arms are in position it should be possible to lie back, leaving the front free for closing.
First time users may find things slightly tight, but the sack will 'give' slightly. If the wearer can be persuaded to move tighter upward into the shoulder area, closing the ankle zip for the first time will be made easier.

ZIPS: The slightly complicated process of starting off the open ended zippers (similar to anorak zippers) needs a little practice. Make sure that the ends are fully connected before beginning to slide them. By tightening the leather ankle strap first, strain is taken off the actual zipper ends as they are connected.
Close the first zip only partially, leaving space to engage the top zipper which, because it has a 'pull on each end means that TWO 'pulls' have to be at the bottom before the zipper can be connected and begin to side.
By gripping the sides of the sack, extra slack can make the engaging of the top zipper much easier. Once it is closing smoothly, close it to chest level.

Collar: First close the first snaps on the inside. You will now notice a single snap fastener base on the collar. This is for the snap on the top 'pull' of the top zip. It will prevent the zipper being worked down after being closed. Fasten his (avoiding pressing on the Adam's Apple) and close the second set of collar snaps.

Because the top zipper is "double pull' the gap at crotch height can be opened for access or locked closed with a padlock (not included in list price).
Basically, the sack is now closed and escape proof. Any other lacing, strapping or lashing down to surfaces, hoods, gags, etc. are a matter of your personal taste or imagination.

Lacing: The small 'D' rings down the front of a MK2 allow for considerable tightening, including feet. Nylon cord or picture cord is suitable. Two pieces, each 6 to 10 feet long, are recommended. This avoids having to deal with too long a piece of cord. It's usually more practical to start lacing from chest to waist and then feet to crotch area. The degree of tightness depends on the stamina of the 'victim' and levels of endurance but too tight lacing can seriously reduce the length of time for which the sack is bearable.

Further adjustments: If using a sack which is too large for the occupant, by using a cord between the 'D' rings across the back of the sack, the general circumference of the sack can be reduced.

Alternative method of putting someone into a SLEEPSACK: It is dangerous to try and zip or lace someone into a Sleepsack while standing up unless the shoulders of the sack the securely anchored to the ceiling with feet touching the floor. The first moves can be made with the 'victim' sitting on stool or chair, then standing while ankles and collars have been closed and shoulder straps attached to a ceiling safety line.

Many people like the idea of being able to sleep all night or spend prolonged periods encased in a sleepsack or bodybag. Used with caution and ingenuity this is perfectly possible and relatively safe. The addition of other restraints, padlocks and hoods does, of course, increase the possibility of something going wrong.
A SLEEPSACK self-applied presents few problems, except that the arms can not be in the internal pockets.

The routine for getting in unaided is as follows.
a) Open the two front zippers having attached a 12 inch loop of thin cord to the lower pull of the TOP zipper.
b) Lay the bag on floor or bed
c) Climb in and close ankle strap and collar (inside & outside snaps).
d) Engage lower zipper and pull three quarters of the way up.
f) Engage top zipper at crotch and move BOTH pulls towards throat. This will mean moving hands from their position above the top zip pulls to below them.
g) Having taken both top zip pulls to throat, anchor top pull to collar snap.
h) Settle back and draw bottom pull of top zipper down to waist (using cord loop.
This will leave your hands free inside the closed sack. If wearing clothes you may be able to force your hands deep down inside trouser pockets for a feeling of more complete helplessness.
Alternatively, by working first one hand behind and into the small of your back and then the same with the other, the weight of the body then traps them there until you work free.
If you loose any circulation, the process of re-opening the sack may be more complicated than you anticipated. The pulls do not open as easily from inside - so allow time - and avoid panic if things don't seem to be going too well. A short rest and relax can work wonders. Take the pull of the top zipper right up to the neck, open collar and then work both pulls down carefully, avoiding dragging either pull too far from the line of the zipper teeth. Strain on side of a zipper whilst it's being slid may result in jamming - or more permanent damage. By changing body tensions strain on zippers can be reduced.

The first few times you use a SLEEPSACK solo, if you can have somebody around to help out just in case you encounter unexpected difficulties - it is a good precaution. Again it can't be stressed too often that the addition of a hood or padlocks can complicate easy exit from this situation. A padlock across the crotch zipper with the key released INSIDE the bag may result in hours of manoeuvring to retrieve it - but if you drop it as you attempt to re-open the padlock and it lands outside the sack - you're there till somebody comes to your rescue.
The whole question of AUTO BONDAGE (self-applied restraints) deserves a lengthy 'Worksheet. Written descriptions and ideas are currently being sought. Your contributions would be welcome.

This is much less complicated, being simply an oblong bag with two zips to close it at one end. There are adequate breathing holes at both ends .
........ REVISE

This was described in previous catalogues but is not included in the current one . Recently we have had several requests for a bodybag which allowed a degree of self-applied restraint. The old design is being re-thought - but your ideas for developing the principle would be of interest.
The idea is to include in the BODYBAG Mk2 ankle loops which would keep the feet apart (boot or no boots would need to be specified when ordering). Secondly, an internal 'pocket' the full width of the bag and reaching from shoulder blades to approximately the finger ends.
Once inside with the zip closed, by rolling slightly to one side, one arm can be worked behind the back and upwards into the pocket. Then, by relaxing, that arm is trapped flat against the side of the body, but separated from it by the wall of the 'pocket'. Next, rolling the weight of the body in the other direction makes it possible to trap the second arm in the 'pocket'. The weight of the relaxed body creates a feeling of considerable restriction.
Release is achieved by the slightly laborious process of rolling the body first to one side and working one arm free and then repeating on the other side.

All FETTERS bodybags, Sleepsacks and Mailsacks are made to take considerable stress - but additional cords which pull 'D' rings or rivets in unplanned-for directions should be avoided. 'D' rings on the sides were designed to be used as anchor points - preferably when bodystraps are also through them, giving them stability. These 'D' rings should not be used as suspension points

In any event, games involving bags and sacks can give hours of challenging and rewarding enjoyment for those inside and outside.