Very few people can accurately anticipate their reaction to being put
inside a dark restrictive 'soft space'. Whether voluntarily or as punishment,
the experience is certainly something which changes and develops with
time, more than most forms of restraint.
impact is something the mind needs time to adjust to. For some people
the first effect is overwhelming but then the mind and body quite soon
accept the circumstances. Other people who anticipate little threat
at being put into a bag may, after a very short time, develop an unexpected
sense of helplessness or panic. Even after the first experience, changed
circumstances outside the sack can produce dramatically different and
event, the effect is usually progressive. So although very few people
can accurately predict their reactions, the basic situation is attractive
to many and discovering your own or someone else's level of tolerance
in this field can be exhilarating.
experiments in the total reduction of sensory
awareness (sound, sight, touch ) have bee conducted in universities
and other establishments around the world. A variety of effects
have been discovered and identified, and the associated techniques
are now being applied in both space travel and 'brain washing'.
in the field of Erotic Bondage the back-to-the-womb experience can be,
for many people, delightfully relaxing. A lot of FETTERS customers are
able to 'switch off' by spending restful nights inside a SLEEPSACK.
Even people who have to put themselves into the sack can stay put after
the first excitement has worn off.
you find that the experience intensifies with time or subsides into
a relaxed and luxurious lack of responsibility - you won't know until
you've tried it As long as no harsh pressure points threaten to interrupt
circulation or cause chafing, different types of bag can be endured/enjoyed
for hours. even when quite tightly plaid. With suitable drainage the
period can he lengthened even further.
variety of different games people play is too broad to review here.
Visual imagery, texture contact. dramatic situation, length of time,
with or without hoods ..... The best advise to follow your own likes
don't over complicate any situation too early in the game and constantly
observe safety precautions, particularly if the 'victim' is not clearly
read his leaflet and done some particular experimenting, your suggestions
as to what should be added to these notes (or anything you may disagree
with) would be welcomed. Jim Stewart October ' 85.
terms of restraint / confinement / endurance, 'The Bag' is a general
area which offers a whole range of different alternatives.
For identification purposes, there are three main subdivisions:
If large enough to take a whole human body with limbs fully extended,
even with the head inside the sack most people can learn to deal with
the situation at least for a short period. But the psychological effect,
being accumulative, needs to be explored. Not knowing what is going
on outside or hearing sounds rich may or may not be interpreted correctly
is, in itself, powerfully effective.
which does not allow room for full extension of the limbs is very much
more potent. Even a slight reduction of mobility, without any other
restrictions, can very quickly have a telling effect on both mind and
body. Limbs soon react painfully and the mind acknowledges not only
the discomfort but the vulnerability much sooner. Adjusting to the limited
(though perfectly adequate) supply of air demands quite strenuous mental
exercise. If the internal size of the bag is gradually reduced, the
situation can soon become intensely oppressive.
outside a sack which is closed around the neck can perhaps intensify
the feeling of helplessness. The neck cord need not be tight if wrists
are secured inside the bag.
If the sack is hung, putting body weight onto the
'walls' of the confined area, the physical experience is altered
completely, and can quickly become barely tolerable.
N.B. The strength and durability of any sack used for suspension must
be equal to the task.
Similar in proportion to a conventional sleeping bag, this can also
render the person inside totally helpless without any additional
restraint being applied. Many games have evolved from normal camping
expeditions. Tough Government Surplus bags can form the basis of a very
useful piece of equipment. 'D' rings added to serve as anchor points
(or to prevent external straps from being worked free) can make an ordinary
bag very versatile.
the head is inside or out, such a gag can keep someone quite comfortably
but totally confined for quite long periods. If the head is aside, a
'snorkel breathing pipe can be used to ensure an adequate supply of
air (but constant monitoring is advisable). Bags made from waterproof
or padded fabric can intensify the experience in terms of generated
heat. Heavy cloths or additional restraints worn before the 'victim'
is put into the bag can extend the parameters of the situation infinitely.
up or suspended within such a bag can completely change the tensions,
but care must be taken. The possible danger of lifting or moving around
the dead-weight of someone who is totally helpless perhaps needs a separate
This is a term used in the FETTERS catalogue to describe a more form
fitting type of full-length bodybag. A soft and malleable covering can
be used to subject a body to varying intensities of confinement through
the use of added lacing or straps. Construction details depend entirely
on the likes and dislikes of the users. As these are usually made to
order, variations such as materials used, access points, anchoring points,
strap or laced tightening possibilities are all optional.
The main thing is that the different concepts; a form fitting bag, a
rectangular flat bag or kit-bag shaped sack with round bottom and straight
walls cover most eventualities in the subject under review here.
In each of the three main 'bag' categories, standard patterns have been
reached after much trial and error and customer feedback. These designs
combine the most popular features and help reduce the number of choices
left to someone investing for the first time in a custom made bag but,
of course, specific features can be omitted or added.
Firstly, most designs can be made entirely from canvas with or without
reinforcement panels and bands, from canvas with leather reinforcement
or totally in leather. As you can imagine, the durability and erotic
effect of each type of fabric makes them all very different, but does
not change the basic structure.
Canvas: This is a 15 ounce cotton duck available in off-white, brown
Leather: Heavy motorcycle clothing weight leather is used, usually black,
but a pale natural colour is an attractive alternative for people who
like, for example, the look of well lived-in Cowboy Chaps. The leather
finish depends on current availability. Preferably, a not too shiny
finish is chosen unless something otherwise is specifically requested.
Large 'D' rings are always welded closed but those used for the lacing
cord across the front are not always so (depending upon availability)
but, because stress on these should only be moderate and only in one
direction, this should cause no problems.
Heavy duty (9 mm) black nylon zippers are usually used.
This combined the visual effect of an old fashioned Post Office parcel
sack when made entirely from canvas. Normal size is a 24 inch diameter
circular base and 36 inch high walls.
Colour of canvas used can dramatically change the visual effect. The
natural off-white canvas either brown canvas or real soft leather reinforced
bottom and hanging straps looks very workman-like and soon acquires
a very lived in look. Black canvas with black canvas or leather reinforcement
has a totally different impact.
around the neck of the sack can be tightly secured or left tantalisingly
loose or even used to allow the head outside the bag.
wide reinforcing straps can be used to hang the bag from four sold welded
'D' rings. Your own straps or cord wrapped around the bag can reduce
the internal size quite drastically.
Breathing holes round the whole circumference of the walls are spaced
so that, even when the internal size of the bag is reduced by half,
there are still plenty of air holes uncovered.
Rectangular, semi flat construction. It has arched ends to prevent the
upper layer of the bag from pressing on the face. Length approximately
seven feet, width two-and-a-half feet.
along one short edge allow locking (from outside or in). This opening
can also be adapted to leave the head outside the bag, by linking the
two zip pulls with a short piece of cord under the back of the neck
(this design has been modified since the main catalogue was printed).
Six large welded 'D' rings allow for the bag to be anchored to a bed
or other surface. As there are air holes at both ends of the bag, the
'victim' can enter eider head or feet first.
Again the choice of all canvas, all leather or a combination of the
two materials may not be entirely a matter of cost. The sensual and
dramatic visual effects are completely different. The choice of colour
combinations is, also, a matter of personal taste.
leather internal sleeves added to any canvas or canvas & leather
SLEEPSACK can bring an element of luxury, especially if no clothes are
to be worn inside.
Leather shiny side inside is another alternative choice when ordering
an all leather SS (rather than the suede-side inside, as is usual in
most leather "garments"). So, the look of someone laced and
strapped into a shiny all-leather SLEEPSACK can be sensational from
the outside but the feel of being naked inside - is something else.
Of course shiny leather outside and leather lining inside is the ultimate
but almost doubles the price!
has additional reinforcing bands (leather) around the body at the chest,
waist, seat, above knees, below knees and at ankles. Attached to these
bands are 12 large 'D' rings down the side profiles and two rows of
smaller 'D' rings on metal plates four inches apart down the front of
have 26 cm high collar which closes to two sizes with snap fasteners
at either side of the neck. Hoods do not attach to this but most good
hoods cover the collar, making a neat closure.
Sleeves: These internal pockets are attached to the sack from armpit
to tips of fingers. They make the sack totally escape proof but can
not be used by people who intend to put themselves into a SLEEPSACK.
action: Three tough black nylon zippers are standard to all SS. To close
the front, one from ankles to approximately the crotch area, and the
second from above the crotch to the throat.
Zippers have no backing flaps as these often crease up causing ridges
when the SLEEPSACK is laced tighter, but for people with chest hair
it may be a useful addition to ask for.
Back zipper: In both standard models this gives access from the waist
to knees. This has it's uses, but for people who won't be using it,
it can be (quite literally) a pain-in the ass. When ordering, it can
be omitted on request.
EXTRAS WHICH CAN BE ADDED TO SLEEPSACKS
An 'extra' which appeals to many people but can reduce the general comfort
of a MARK2 SLEEPSACK is the addition of heavy leather shoulder straps.
These are anchored from waist in front to waist in back, distributing
the weight. Suspension is relatively comfortable in a Sleepsack, but
unless tightly laced it can throw some extra tightness under the armpits.
Also note that it can be physically dangerous getting someone who is
in a Sleepsack lying down into an upright position. All precaution should
be taken that unexpected weight doesn't end up in you over balancing
with someone unable to protect themselves.
Holes in chest of a SLEEPSACK are another possible 'extra' but the position
of holes tends to shift because of lacing. Open holes also reduce the
sense of encasement but holes with openable covers offer a quite usable
decisions on these matters of personal preferences should be made before
Requests for latex or oilskin lining are frequent and possible but usually
the recommendation is that by not commit yourself to a lining, anything
from a latex cat-suit, all rubber diving suit, foul weather naval oilskins
or motorcycle leathers are practical alternatives inside a SLEEPSACK.
A permanent latex lining may limit the time that can comfortably be
spent in the sack, reduce the options available and practically double
BAG: For some people into tickling torture or others who like to see
a good hefty pair of boots, a SLEEPSACK without feet is a practical
alternative. No foot bag does reduce the totality of putting someone
into a 'sack' but there are several practical advantages including using
the bag on people of different heights.
SUSPENSION: An imaginative FETTERS customer in Cleveland USA has come
up with the idea of a free-hanging SLEEPSACK but we had to supply a
special sling to make it possible. Getting the Sleepsack suspended level
involves a length process of tying off 12 ropes with the encased body
on a long table. When the ropes are all made off, the table (or could
be hospital trolley) is then removed and the isolation is total.
N.B. Again it must be stressed that standard 'D' rings should not be
used for suspension.
The front closing of the Sleepsack collar prevents attaching hoods,
most of which have back closing. The BAG HOOD is the most useful for
the use with a SLEEPSACK. Any tighter hood takes time to unlace in case
of emergency. The question of whether the hood collar should be under
or over the SLEEPSACK collar is a matter of personal choice and discretion.
ALTERNATIVE: Some people may prefer a single front zip from ankles to
throat. This can be added if preferred but it does not prevent access
at cock level.
SETS: The additional effect of six leather straps around the body may
also feel good even if they are not strictly necessary! The straps can
be threaded through the larger ' D' rings (which are strategically place
down the sides of the MARK 2) and encircle the whole body. This means
threading them before the body is in the bag or indulging in a lot of
rolling around and weight shifting to get them into position.
after the sack has been closed, the straps can be slid through the side
'D' rings WRONG SIDE UP across the top of the body and then strapped
closed IN FRONT pulling the sides of the sack tightly towards the front.
This means that the added tightness is in the form of canvas rather
than six narrow bands of leather.
N.B. The 'D' rings on the SLEEPSACK are not designed to take any suspended
TO LIVE WITH A SLEEPSACK OR BODYBAG
More and more, FETTERS is discovering that detailed instructions for
the use of some pieces of equipment are helpful to many customers. The
general objective of, say, a SLEEPSACK is quite obvious to anyone meeting
one for the first time (whether it's made to measure or a general size
to fit all comers) but a prescribed routine for getting it on and closed
for the first time can save energy, confusion and broken fingernails.
Suggestions for alternative and elaborated uses may also irk some people
but can act as a useful stimulus for more ingenious people to discover
the additional variations.
First time putting on or climbing into a FETTERS SLEEPSACK can seem
slightly complicated. It's not a piece of equipment you can physically
force someone into. The sack should be lain out flat on the floor or
bed with the two front zippers open and the back one closed. The intended
wearer, dressed or undressed as preferred should then sit into it and
put the feet/boots down into the foot-bag. Next, lying back (perhaps
with some help by having the collar lifted slightly), arms can the slid
into the internal sleeves. Once the arms are in position it should be
possible to lie back, leaving the front free for closing.
First time users may find things slightly tight, but the sack will 'give'
slightly. If the wearer can be persuaded to move tighter upward into
the shoulder area, closing the ankle zip for the first time will be
slightly complicated process of starting off the open ended zippers
(similar to anorak zippers) needs a little practice. Make sure that
the ends are fully connected before beginning to slide them. By tightening
the leather ankle strap first, strain is taken off the actual zipper
ends as they are connected.
Close the first zip only partially, leaving space to engage the top
zipper which, because it has a 'pull on each end means that TWO 'pulls'
have to be at the bottom before the zipper can be connected and begin
By gripping the sides of the sack, extra slack can make the engaging
of the top zipper much easier. Once it is closing smoothly, close it
to chest level.
First close the first snaps on the inside. You will now notice a single
snap fastener base on the collar. This is for the snap on the top 'pull'
of the top zip. It will prevent the zipper being worked down after being
closed. Fasten his (avoiding pressing on the Adam's Apple) and close
the second set of collar snaps.
the top zipper is "double pull' the gap at crotch height can be
opened for access or locked closed with a padlock (not included in list
Basically, the sack is now closed and escape proof. Any other lacing,
strapping or lashing down to surfaces, hoods, gags, etc. are a matter
of your personal taste or imagination.
The small 'D' rings down the front of a MK2 allow for considerable tightening,
including feet. Nylon cord or picture cord is suitable. Two pieces,
each 6 to 10 feet long, are recommended. This avoids having to deal
with too long a piece of cord. It's usually more practical to start
lacing from chest to waist and then feet to crotch area. The degree
of tightness depends on the stamina of the 'victim' and levels of endurance
but too tight lacing can seriously reduce the length of time for which
the sack is bearable.
adjustments: If using a sack which is too large for the occupant, by
using a cord between the 'D' rings across the back of the sack, the
general circumference of the sack can be reduced.
method of putting someone into a SLEEPSACK: It is dangerous to try and
zip or lace someone into a Sleepsack while standing up unless the shoulders
of the sack the securely anchored to the ceiling with feet touching
the floor. The first moves can be made with the 'victim' sitting on
stool or chair, then standing while ankles and collars have been closed
and shoulder straps attached to a ceiling safety line.
GETTING IT ON WITHOUT OUTSIDE HELP! (USING SLEEPSACK OR BODYBAG SOLO)
Many people like the idea of being able to sleep all night
or spend prolonged periods encased in a sleepsack or bodybag. Used with
caution and ingenuity this is perfectly possible and relatively safe.
The addition of other restraints, padlocks and hoods does, of course,
increase the possibility of something going wrong.
A SLEEPSACK self-applied presents few problems, except that the arms
can not be in the internal pockets.
routine for getting in unaided is as follows.
a) Open the two front zippers having attached a 12 inch loop of thin
cord to the lower pull of the TOP zipper.
b) Lay the bag on floor or bed
c) Climb in and close ankle strap and collar (inside & outside snaps).
d) Engage lower zipper and pull three quarters of the way up.
f) Engage top zipper at crotch and move BOTH pulls towards throat. This
will mean moving hands from their position above the top zip pulls to
g) Having taken both top zip pulls to throat, anchor top pull to collar
h) Settle back and draw bottom pull of top zipper down to waist (using
This will leave your hands free inside the closed sack. If wearing clothes
you may be able to force your hands deep down inside trouser pockets
for a feeling of more complete helplessness.
Alternatively, by working first one hand behind and into the small of
your back and then the same with the other, the weight of the body then
traps them there until you work free.
If you loose any circulation, the process of re-opening the sack may
be more complicated than you anticipated. The pulls do not open as easily
from inside - so allow time - and avoid panic if things don't seem to
be going too well. A short rest and relax can work wonders. Take the
pull of the top zipper right up to the neck, open collar and then work
both pulls down carefully, avoiding dragging either pull too far from
the line of the zipper teeth. Strain on side of a zipper whilst it's
being slid may result in jamming - or more permanent damage. By changing
body tensions strain on zippers can be reduced.
The first few times you use a SLEEPSACK solo, if you can have somebody
around to help out just in case you encounter unexpected difficulties
- it is a good precaution. Again it can't be stressed too often that
the addition of a hood or padlocks can complicate easy exit from this
situation. A padlock across the crotch zipper with the key released
INSIDE the bag may result in hours of manoeuvring to retrieve it - but
if you drop it as you attempt to re-open the padlock and it lands outside
the sack - you're there till somebody comes to your rescue.
The whole question of AUTO BONDAGE (self-applied restraints) deserves
a lengthy 'Worksheet. Written descriptions and ideas are currently being
sought. Your contributions would be welcome.
USE OF BODYBAG
This is much less complicated, being simply an oblong bag with two zips
to close it at one end. There are adequate breathing holes at both ends
This was described in previous catalogues but is not included in the
current one . Recently we have had several requests for a bodybag which
allowed a degree of self-applied restraint. The old design is being
re-thought - but your ideas for developing the principle would be of
The idea is to include in the BODYBAG Mk2 ankle loops which would keep
the feet apart (boot or no boots would need to be specified when ordering).
Secondly, an internal 'pocket' the full width of the bag and reaching
from shoulder blades to approximately the finger ends.
Once inside with the zip closed, by rolling slightly to one side, one
arm can be worked behind the back and upwards into the pocket. Then,
by relaxing, that arm is trapped flat against the side of the body,
but separated from it by the wall of the 'pocket'. Next, rolling the
weight of the body in the other direction makes it possible to trap
the second arm in the 'pocket'. The weight of the relaxed body creates
a feeling of considerable restriction.
Release is achieved by the slightly laborious process of rolling the
body first to one side and working one arm free and then repeating on
the other side.
All FETTERS bodybags, Sleepsacks and Mailsacks are made to take considerable
stress - but additional cords which pull 'D' rings or rivets in unplanned-for
directions should be avoided. 'D' rings on the sides were designed to
be used as anchor points - preferably when bodystraps are also through
them, giving them stability. These 'D' rings should not be used as suspension
In any event, games involving bags and sacks can give hours of challenging
and rewarding enjoyment for those inside and outside.